New 5 inch knew concept saw problem

The thing missing in this entire discussion is the fact the the
retro-fit lever tension is not a repair for a defective product. The
original saw has been discussed at length, and it is a good saw, and
it will remain in production with the knurled tension knob on top.

Because I have always tried to make everything that I make “backward
compatible” (see mission statement on website), Brian and I
developed a way to add the cam-lever feature to the original saw.

The key phrase here is: “add the cam-lever feature”. For those that
want to upgrade, we will be offering a kit with all of the needed
components, and a drawing that shows the modification to the saw.

That doesn’t mean that it is free. The original saw works just fine
according to the majority of posters on this thread. Because it is
different from the norm, some folks have had a learning curve…most
haven’t.

We are preparing for the SNAG conference and hope to see many of you
there. By then, I hope to have an example of the retro-fit kit along
with pricing.

Lee (the saw guy)

I absolutely love my knew concept saws. I have both the original and
the lever one. I keep different size blades in each. I have several
old saw frames that I think I will convert to some kind of wall
decoration. I hate the old ones - they are heavy, hard to load and
in my mind belong to an earlier era, model Ts and such.

Probably the most important change in my sawing with the new frames
was to lighten up. You don’t have to steer the blade with force as
before, just gently guide it. If you persist in man-handling the
light frame, you will have trouble getting satisfactory results. My
hands don’t hurt now after sawing for a while. And since the blades
last much longer, I have a lifetime supply of blades now.

If you are going to do a lot of piercing, get the lever saw. For
normal outline sawing, the early frame is just fine.

Gosh it is hard to get some folks to change —

Judy Hoch

Thanks Judy, for being the first to mention this. I have the same
problem in which the saw blades (different manufacturers purchased
from Rio, Allcraft and I think a few from Metalliferous). The blades
seem to be too short, or we can view it as the screws which clamp
the blade ends are too far apart. I mostly get around the problem by
inserting the bottom of the blade completely into the saw cavity,
but then raising it/pulling it back out 1-3mm before tightening. Then
I lower the top screw by turning/loosening the cylinder, then
inserting the top of the blade, tightening the upper screw and keep
my fingers crossed as I retighten the blade tension. If I’ve been
careful and lucky the blade stays held at both ends. Must admit I
don’t always tighten to the ping as I’m afraid that much tension will
pull the blade out of the screw’s grip. If I wasn’t lucky one end
slips out of the screw and I get to loosen everything and try again -
very frustrating.

But once successful the saw works fine until the next attempt.
Breaking fewer blades as well. I own both the 3" and 7" and have the
same problem with both.

Mary Partlan
White Branch Designs

I'd be interested in trying a custom 8" deep version of the KCsaw
frame for sawing dies, but I know it's not practical to make a
one-off of a tool like that, so I'll be happy using the 8" frame
Lee made me out of solid 1/2" square aluminum bar. 

I still use old fashioned 5" deep saw frames, so I’m sure I’ll end
up with a standard KC frame that I’ll adapt to die sawing. It isn’t
exactly an urgent need, because the bottom line is that I know I’m
getting the most out of sawblades, regardless of which frame I’m
using.

Sawing 0-1 tool steel with jeweler’s sawblades is hard on blades,
period. Blades often stop cornering well after only a few turns, and
as a blade becomes dull it can veer off course more easily than
normal. Blades that start off leaning one way can end up leaning the
other by the time they’re done. Blades that don’t break prematurely
can become so slow- sawing that I intentionally break them so I can
rest and get a fresh one going.

F.Y.I. I only use Pike Platinum (about 80% of the time now) and
Yellow Dagger( the other 20%) these days. I’ve tried all the high
end blades, and while I used to use Y.D. almost exclusively, the
P.P.'s saw faster and longer, though they are not as good cornering.

Point being that ‘anyone’ can learn to use a standard jeweler’s saw
effectively. It sounds like the KC saw makes it easier to jump in
and saw well without breaking a lot of blades, for people who may not
have sawn much before. It also sounds like it is good for folks who
do or have sawn a lot, so that’s excellent, because (you don’t need
to tell me, I live through Sawing Hell every week) sawing can be
frustrating. I said earlier that I saw with brute force, but that’s
only partially true, because that has to be controlled while sawing
many of the dies I make. Accuracy is often more important than
speed, and it is a delicate balance between pushing hard enough to
be efficient and pushing so hard you snap the blade.

Another point being that I always give Lee the benefit of the doubt
because I know that he works closely with us tool users to develop,
adapt, and modify products to best suit our needs. That being said,
anything he can make, I can destroy, given enough time, but
fortunately there’s only one of me. As a very wise person who once
called me up many years ago suggested : "I didn’t think anyone was
crazy enough to do that (saw pancake dies) for a living ". There
is…

Dar
sheltech.net

Blades too short?..clamps too far apart?

After I settled on the dimensions for the saw frame based upon the
International standard of 5-1/8" long blades, everything else was
nailed down.

After having settled on all the dimensions, I also encountered long
and short blades, and here is a “work around” for it.

Loosen the two set screws on the bottom clamp that secure the clamp
to the frame. Move the clamp up about 1/16" and re-tighten the set
screws. Make sure that the back of the clamp is firmly against the
vertical portion of the frame so that the blade alignment does not
change.

Moving the clamp upwards will expose the tang hole in the handle,
and unless you want to collect all of your precious metal fines in
there, I suggest that you use a small amount of sealer (bathtub
caulk, for example) to seal the top of the hole before reinstalling
the clamp.

Because of the blade length issue, I have made a blade length gauge
right on the frame. The changeover is now complete on all of the new
frames currently in production, with the last one to convert was the
3". The gauge is at the rear spine of the frame, and the “windows"
have been changed from rounded corners to a flat at the top and
bottom that measures 5-1/8” apart. It is now really easy to verify
blade length.

You can add a pair of marks to your frame with a scribe and
accomplish the same thing.

I hope that this helps.
Lee (the saw guy)

Hi Guys,

Got my (k)new toy yesterday.

At first I thought I’d been stiffed, the box felt empty. The frame
is so light.

Tensioning the blade was a breeze, cutting did take a little getting
used to as the weight was not in the frame, but it was a quick
getting used to.

I pushed the blade through a very rough blob of sterling silver,
different thicknesses, with no wax or any other lubricant… no
problems.

Used it for the rest of the day, I removed the tension from the
blade and left it in the frame for next time :slight_smile:

Well worth the money.

Regards Charles A.
P.S. For my purposes it’s dandy, and if I ever need to do a lot of
piercing, I’ll invest in the lever action model.