here is a question…what are some good ways to store steel forming tools…such as dapping punch and block sets…drawplates…bezel block sets…
i use them infrequently….
they sometimes come in a waxed paper wrapping…sometimes coated in a sticky grease/ oil…sometimes wrapped on plastic wrap…
trying to figure out a storage solution
i can wipe then down with oil…or the meguiers wax…but i am wondering if they should also be wrapped…?…and what type of container would be best…wood?…plastic?…
if i had my fantasy garage full of power tools, i would make aturdy boxes…with slide out lids🙌🏼
There are going to be some really smart answers to this, but I would say that I have seen a lot of folks store metal tools in cloth that has been saturated in a light oil. Then those wrapped tools are placed in wooden boxes. I think the wooden boxes allows atmospheric moisture to migrate out as needed.
The auto parts industry have already solved the problem using anticorrosion paper and oils but unfortunately we don’t have access to this products.
My best solution is to clean the tools and then spray Boeing Shield to them let the pieces dry and individually wrapped each one in kitchen wax paper, then store them in a plastic or metal container. Oily rags are a fire hazard and unfinished wood is a rust promoter.
Humidity above 55% can be the initiator of rusting, keeping the tools under a controlled humidity is the ideal scenario.
For me, running a dehumidifier year round seems to be the key. Most of my polished tools stay rust free and only need a light oiling and a polish once in a while…Rob
I keep my most precious steel tools like bezel blocks, dapping block and punches, etc. in lightly oil soaked rags in a big metal tool box. That seems to work well for me in my not very air tight New England studio (which is a shed) in the mid of winter and summer humidity. To be honest, I’m surprised that such a simple system works so well, but it does.
My rolling mill from Durston arrived slathered in lanolin some ten years ago. It was in perfect condition, and I subsequently used lanolin as a general lubricant for my metal tools. I have no evidence it’s better than other greases or oils but nothing rusted, it smelled a lot better than some greases, and it kept my hands in good condition!
I learned a great trick from the late great Jeffrey Herman. I mirror polish all of my steel forming tools. dapping punches, bench blocks, stakes, and hammers, etc. Following Jeffery’s advice I use Meguiar’s car wax on them. It’s pretty tough stuff considering that it has to repel rain, bird shit, and God knows what, as well as surface dings from other car doors and rogue shopping carts, I used to use oil, but it attracted and held any dust in the studio. With the car wax I just use a feather duster once a week or so on them. That said I use oil soaked sponges wedged into the top and bottom of the rolls on our rolling mill to clean them as I roll. When not in use I keep an old pillow care as a cover for the mill. Now be prepared for some serious tool envy when you open the images here. Herman Silver Restoration & Conservation: Silversmithing Shop View #8. Herman Silver Restoration & Conservation: Silversmithing Shop View #10 And yes I do own one of his custom planishing hammers. It was insanely expensive but it is the best perfectly shaped and balanced hammer I have ever used.
ok, great! i have already purchased the meguiars on your advise earlier!
so rust protection- meguiars
and dust protection- pillow case
and from carlos, i never knew unfinished wood could cause rust…gases i presume?
because i am space-challenged i was considering storage container options…for now i continue to use cut-down durston heavy cardboard boxes…until i move into a fantasy studio with a dedicated forming/ chasing/ repousse area!
keeping stuff rust free is a problem in humid climates. has anyone used organic oils like canola oil rather than petroleum products? Do organic oils work? Poly unsaturated ones tend to polymerize and create varnish which is had to clean off. Living in the desert southwest has its advantages…the relative humidity is low and things barely rust here even if left unprotected.
We live in Oregon where it’s wet. A lot. We have a dehumidifier in our basement studio.
As for oils… We only have 3 in one oil soaked sponges on our rolling mill so that it cleans as well as protects at the same time. That said oils attract dust and debris. Plant oils in particular tend to get gummy with time. That’s why I use car wax on everything else that needs to be protected from rust.
And this Can I use olive oil as machine lubricant?
YES! Olive oil, like most vegetable oils is an excellent lubricant apart from its poor oxidation stability. The problem with using vegetable oils as a lubricant is the fact that the oil forms a gummy residue that will clog moving parts after some time.
I’ve noticed the same thing… plant oils do polymerize and get sticky… what about using WD40?..
car wax is a great idea… thanks.
WD40 will only work as a rust barrier for a bout 24 hours.
thanks… I didn’t think it worked very well…