More about Jump Ringer

Can someone pleas tell me more about a “Jump Ringer”. Does anyone use
them? I am relatively new to the jewellery business but have a high
demand for a certain type of link bracelet that I am manufacturing. I
always seem to be cutting huge gashes in my fingers when sawing
through jump rings with my fret saw. I also wrap the coiled metal in
masking tape to make it easier to hold before sawing. Do jump ringers
work? If so - which one do you recommend (I will be importing this
and don’t want to make an expensive mistake)? Can you buy mandrals in
different sizes and is one type of jump ringer able to cut/saw round,
oval and square jump rings? Is there another cheaper/easier method
that I don’t know of?

Bandaged fingers Carolyn Singer
South Africa

PS - I think this forum is great - it’s wonderful to be in touch with
so many professionals!!

Dear Carolyn,

I am the inventor and manufacturer of the Jump Ringer system. There
are several copycat versions of them now on the market but none are
as versatile and productive as the Jump Ringer. The standard model
will wind and cut coils of round rings up to 5" (127mm) long. It will
easily cut any of the normal jewelry metals including any alloy of
silver, gold filled, gold (any karat), copper, brass and aluminum
from .016" (0.39mm) up to .080" (2.0mm). Yes, we also produce a set
of 16 different sized steel winding mandrels. If your needs warrant,
we also produce a “Long” or “High Production” version of these with
the same specifications except that 15" (38cm) long coils are machine
wound and cut quite rapidly. We also produce a “MultiShape” Jump
Ringer which will wind and cut oval, square, diamond and triangular
jump rings. The systems use a flexible shaft machine which drives the
saw blade. It is a necessity and the model we recommend is the
Foredom Model SR w/#30 handpiece. These items are depicted very
clearly in Rio Grande’s 2006-2007 Tools & Equipment Catalog. You may
contact them at

My best,
Ray Grossman
Ray Grossman Inc.

We are a small user of the jump ringer system (we only cut 10-15
ounces a day) so there are probably better people to answer your
question although we have bought and used many systems. And the
jumper ringer is the best by far we use the long one I would
recommend the long unit to anyone that is making more the a few
rings a day (more the 50 of a type) the labor savings is huge with
the way we are set up even one a heavy ring day 15 ounces coiling the
wire cutting and cleaning the jump rings it takes one person an hour
with the smaller units it was a 4 to 6 hour process. As far as shaped
jump rings I am not sure if the are available in the long unit but
there is no cut fingers with this process and when making jump ring
jewelry the long unit pays for itself quickly I hope this helps

Rodney Abel

I just bought the jump ringer after 30 years of sawing into my
fingers and don’t know how I lived without it for so many years. It
is definitly worth the money, saved fingers and lots of jump rings
made very easily.

jennifer friedman
enamelist, jewelry artisan, hollow ware,
ceremonial silver, and restoration
Ventura, CA

Carolyn -

I have a PEPE Tools Jump Ring Maker System. It comes with everything
the basic Jump Ringer comes with, but also with 20 round mandrels
that range from 2.5mm to 12mm diameter. The saw blade that comes with
it is thicker than the Jump Ringer, I am told. (Look in the archives
for a recent thread on that.)

So far I have been very happy with it. You can’t go wrong with
either system. Mandrels of other shapes and sizes are available; they
will fit either system, I’ll bet, since both use the 3-tooth Jacobs
chuck type of quick release. The PEPE Tools kit is by far the most

You will need a Foredom (or similar) flex shaft, with a #30
handpiece…that’s what the cutting system is designed to use.
Dremel will NOT do (first-hand experience on my part). Make sure you
have this on hand before you get the jump ring system.

No matter which systems you buy, here are a few safety tips to

Wear safety goggles before you start cutting. Metal dust becomes

airborne, and it’s very fine.

Don’t have your foot anywhere near the pedal until you are certain

everything works correctly, the top is fastened down, and the
cutting blade is in the slot. The system is designed with safety in
mind, but “pilot error” can overcome most safety devices.

After the first, second and third use (initially, or anytime after

you change a blade), loosen the handpiece, push it out of the
housing (leave the blade on), and check to make sure the blade
mandrel is tight!!! I was careful the first time, but after blade
replacement I didn’t check. Could not figure out why my new blade was
binding and getting so hot…turns out the mandrel screw had backed
out and only the blade guide was keeping the blade from flying

Tighten both ends of the cutting slot evenly, and at the same

time. If you tighten one side, then the other, there will be uneven
tension and subsequent binding on the blade. It’s tedious, but I hold
the cutting slot down with light pressure on the coil while I tighten
the top nuts. Then I pick up the loaded device and check to make sure
the clearance on the left is the same as on the right.

Until you get one and handle it, some of my instructions won’t make
sense. Just re-read after you get the jump ring system.

I have never tried cutting square or triangular ‘rings’, but it
should not be too much different. Don’t know about oval at all;
maybe someone else has experience? I know the mandrels are out there.

best regards,

Never used a Jump Ringer, but saw a neat little jump ring tool at
Basel about a dozen years ago, demonstrated by one of the German
supply houses, As near as I can remember you feed the wire in one
end, turn the handle and split links fall off the front. You could
make hundreds in minutes. If you need heaver sizes in production
quantities there are many European equipment manufactures that make
coiling and sawing machines. A lot more expensive but worth it for a
chain making house. Always wonder why more of the great European
tools never find their way into the US.

Dennis Smith - thejewelmaker

In answer to Kelly’s comments:

I have never tried cutting square or triangular 'rings', but it
should not be too much different. Don't know about oval at all
maybe someone else has experience? I know the mandrels are out

There is no way this can be done with Pepe’s system. Shapes other
than round must be cut on the mandrel and there is no provision made
for controlling the depth of cut. With the Pepe tool you will either
not fully cut through the wire or cut too deeply and chew up your
mandrel. Although Pepe tried to copy our Jump Ringer, the parts are
NOT interchangeable so once you purchase this system you cannot add
accessories it to take advantage of the greater versatility and
productivity of the Jump Ringer System.

You get what you pay for.

Ray Grossman

saw a neat little jump ring tool at Basel about a dozen years ago,
demonstrated by one of the German supply houses, feed the
wire in one end, turn the handle and split links fall off the

This sounds intriguing. Can you give me a bit more so I
can head in the right direction and check this out? I’ll share
whatever I find out.