is anyone here familiar with the Model Master? If so I have a question. First
of all this thing has more than paid for itself. It does work very well. I do
have a small problem the the polymer that picks up grey tones. That is the
orange polymer. I get moisture spots under the work being transfered, thus the
moisture affects the way the polymer picks up the image. Then when i wash it
down the spots that picked up the moisture are nothing but blank space. How
can i stop the moisture??? I have tried a dehumidifier in my shop but still
have the problem. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated…
Thank you,
Marc Williams
is anyone here familiar with the Model Master? If so I have a question. First
of all this thing has more than paid for itself. It does work very well. I do
have a small problem the the polymer that picks up grey tones.
I’ve used it and I like it. I do drawings with Autocad, scale them and
produce perfect models. As for the problem with the moisture. ??? Beats me.
I haven’t goten that far yet.
http://www.knight-hub.com/manmtndense/bhh3.htm
e-mail: @Bruce_Holmgrain
snail mail: POB 7072, McLean, VA 22106-7972, U.S.A.
I was probably one of the first people to buy the original unit sold under
a different name, perhaps 12 years ago… I did a LOT of work with it;
nameplates, logos, artistic images. The problem you run into is in burning
out the photopolymer material. It destroys the investment. I’m writing a
book with a section about it, explaining the entire problem, and all the
different fixes. I’m considering publishing just the section on
photopolymers, your interest has aroused mine to finish it. I say go ahead
and buy the unit, I can help you through the difficulties. If you have
CorelDRAW, you can make tons of designs. I started out using transfer
lettering and copy machines, eventually bought a used copy camera, used
service bureaus which produced 2400 dpi resolution (Linotronic) images… I
was into it for years until I started milling the images so I could get
true 3-d logos. The Photopolymer method will give you one level of etch,
although fine lines will not etch all the way through, producing apparent
multiple levels of etch. You can also texture the background… And of
course you can etch clear through to the removable backing… when you
purchase the unit, post a note then the fun will begin… 
Jeffrey Everett
Hello again Judie:
I have used the Model Master and have mixed feelings about it. I
have had success with it but do not attempt to do things with
extreme detail. The rubber molds I have produced with the masters
have consistently deteriorated after about 100 200 injections.
I am planning to have some magnesium sheet etched by an
engraving company to make some rubber molds from. I think these
will produce more detailed masters and longer lasting rubber
molds. However the polymer system is good for things that need a
quick turnaround time.
For greater production I would investigate metal molds.
I think there may be others on this list who have more
experience with the polymers than I.
Kenneth Gastineau
@Kenneth_Gastineau1
Has anyone worked with this unit and what have you discovered about its
advantages and disadvantages.
Dear Judie:
We have a model master and it works fine but it has it’s limits on small
detail. If it is a piece with no fine work it is acceptable but for items
that have small print or line work we get it done by a printing Co and
they send us a zinc plate of incredible detail. We run a rubber mold or use
it to direct the EDM to make a metal die. We have used both. the cost is
about the same even with the shipping. A 9X5 plate runs around 15.00. the
turn around is about a week though and the model master is in house much
quicker. The Co we use is ( Owosso Graphic Arts 151 N DRd. Owosso MI 48867
Phone 1-800 444-5552) You have to ask for a right reading plate otherwise
it will come back as a mirror image ready for the printers. RED
I bought the Model master from Rio Grande, several years ago. I used it
twice, producing a piece that was way too heavy (in silver) for my use.
It was about 1"by 2" and weighed 1 oz! The detail was OK, but having only
two levels seemed a little boring and ordinary. Any suggestions would be
appreciated so I could resurrect this expensive piece of equipment.
Thanks.
I guess iti’s time to ressurrect my book. Producing Jewelry with the Model
Master (new name!) Jeffrey
Just a thought, on the polymer molds- why not pull a mold off the polymer,
using citricone molding material? when it cures( in about an hour), you
could just fill depression w/ wax for instant copy in wax. Citricone is
great stuff… A. Stickney
Where do you find citricone? thanks @Goll_Robert1
There are one or two people on the Artmetal list who take their artwork, on
clear acetate, to a bureau that makes rubber stamps for office work. I
haven’t tried it, but they seem to find it OK.
Kevin Eva, Northern England, UK
k.eva@msmail.trctho.simis.com