hi to all !
i need to my bench stereo microscope for at least two different applications.
first use for micro welding tig arc under argon gas, example PUK U5
optional, adaptable and removable, quality darkening glass filter, possible from helmet.
will be without “unit optical cable”, no cable connection to central unit.
automatically momentarily blackout sensor to arc.
to lampert puk 5 microscope eye protection features
switching time < 50 ms
UV protection > UV11
IR protection > IR11
the SM5 lampert microscope, sold with the welding unit the eye protection system is built-in, non-removable.
can not be used for another application.
second use for hand engraving
thanks for your views !
Unfortunately, you cannot hotwire an auto-darkening welding shield to work with a PUK. I tried. It was a serious mistake. Took exactly one weld pulse for me to figure that out. I was seeing spots for hours.
They just do not respond fast enough. The PUK shutter is actually tripped a few milliseconds ahead of the welding pulse, so it is fully dark before the welder fires. Since the PUK welding machine triggers the shutter, it can do that. No shutter that waits for the flash before it trips can ever be fast enough.
I also have one of the 20 microscope lens shields that Lampert ever made for converting a microscope other than theirs. That didn’t work very well either. I finally ended up paying the money to buy the real PUK microscope, even though I already had a Nikon stereo scope.
I wrote a review of my original PUK, complete with the extra microscope conversion lens here:
It does talk a little about the conversion shutter, and why it is a bad idea.
Hope this helps.
But for now, please trust me on this: do NOT try to hotwire a welding shutter to your microscope. You could do serious damage to your eyes.
thanks for your quick response.
i have read your writings many times.
after some search and watching the following videos all microscopes having optional external darkening filters.
still i have a lot of questions, why not ?
MICRO WELDING (TIG V-01 JAPAN)
after second 0.25 Como Soldar ouro, prata, platina, aço inox
thanks for the time devoted !
I had essentially the same experience as Alberic. For years I used an ABI Mini plus 3 and shut my eyes just before tripping the foot pedal. I did all my welding under my engraving scope.
I needed better control of the welding and decided to get a Puk 5, but I wanted to use my scope. I had years of welding experience in industry with both stick and tig. And was familiar with both standard and auto-darkening lenses. I tried adapting an auto lense to the scope. I could not get it to respond fast enough.
The lense worked fine for tig welding, but not the capacitive discharge welding done under a microscope. You need a shutter triggered before the weld impulse starts, not after. I was forced to bite the bullet and buy the Puk 5 scope. It was one of my better purchases.
I’ve been using a PUK 3 for about a year now, and I’m fairly comfortable with it. I’ve scoured the internet trying to find a handy cheat sheet for settings to use on various metals. I know of one for the the PUK 4 and later, but nothing for the the PUK 3, do you know of anything?
hi again after years alberic.
how right you were then in everything you had mentioned !
i felt the need to write it.