If you use hard silver solder with a good initial close fitting
joint it will not release during the subsequent enamel firing
provided that no pressure is applied to the joint during the firing.
For cuff link blank I would use a 2mm thick base with no counter
enamel on the back-face where I assume all of the solder will be
located. One point you need to take into account is that everytime
you fire the solder will get that much harder but it can also
develop small black pits. To prevent pit damage to the hard solder
during enameling you need to cover the solderedjoint with a flux,
borax is ok for this but any high fire flux[solder variety] will do.
Enamel on the face of the cuff link should not exceed 0.3-0.4mm in
depth and a protective metal edge [ champleve] to the enamel is
The metal edge is useful if for any reason the solder joint failed
during the enamel firing -just turn the completed enamel face down
supported on the metal edge and resolder the finding but use easy
solder this time - I havenever needed to do this but it can happen
Is hard solder better than enameling solder- I believe that a good
hard solder joint will be stronger than an enamel solder joint
because it flows better and so makes a better initial solder joint
As an experiment try soldering two pieces of sterling together using
hard solder and then try to seperate them using heat alone- the metal
will melt first. You don’t realise how much surface tension there in
in the joint until you try to correct a misplaced hard soldered item.