I have not used these, but keeping debating on having one made. Would
love a discussion of why/when/how to use them, best sizes, what you
recommend should be on them (name or symbol or what?), and
suggestions of best places to buy them.
Before I had it made I was using a bur to sign my work, which worked
but the cut was not deep and I have sloppy hand writing. I still sign
on occasion, but its usually for large custom items. I’m still
figuring out when hand signing is best for me.
When I did get my stamp made I went with all letters C BOS because I
felt like my full name was to long. I had it made through CR Hill in
Berkely, MI but I know that AU Enterprises (also in Berkley, MI)
makes them as well.
If you work in precious metals, you need to stamp your work with the
appropriate metal content stamp. Depending on the country of origin,
this may be a legal requirement. You should also think about a
personal stamp (hallmark or maker’s mark, (also a very good
bourbon)), that will associate your work with you. I always content
stamp my work, stamp with my initials (hall mark) and, for pieces
that are sized, add a sizing stamp. I then hand etch in a serial
number. It is sometimes hard to find room for all of this. In that
case, you leave out what you have to, but at least content stamp it.
I have had custom stamps made by Harpur Manufacturing in the past.
It takes a long time for them to manufacture, so plan ahead. They
Many other places will also do this work, but I can’t speak for
The Professional Development Seminar will be covering this topic at
the SNAG Conference, Friday afternoon, April 25 2014 with 3.5 hours
of programming content titled “Collector’s, Collections, and You.”
The maker mark will include technical aspects such as the
best sizes, and designs for maker’s marks. In addition, the speakers
will address why to use a maker’s mark and its importance in
establishing value for your jewelry and metalwork. Our speaker line
up is amazing! Stay tuned for more coming soon!
In the meantime, I look forward to hear what the Orchid experts have
Every country has different laws regarding quality stamps, and some
have no laws at all.
In the US there is no requirement to quality stamp jewelry or other
However, the National Stamping Act requires that if you do stamp a
piece with a quality mark, 14K, 18K, 925, or whatever, then you must
also stamp it with a mark identifying either the maker or the store,
whichever entity vouches for the accuracy of the quality of the
piece. The identifying stamp may be either a registered trademark or
just the name of the maker or store.
I stamp my work with a fineness mark and when possible a maker’s
stamp I had mine made by Microstamp in the US because I couldn’t find
a stamp maker in Australia. It took about 3 weeks between sending the
artwork by e-mail to receiving the stamp in the post. My design is
based around a symbol of a crescent moon which suits my trading name.
The symbol was also used by alchemists for silver. The design extends
the crescent shape into a “G”. it is 3mm in diameter. I put my
initials and the year on some of my larger one off castings by
scratching into the wax pattern before casting.
Thanks for the clarification. I guess that I was taught some
iteration of what you describe in your reference. My hope was to
encourage the original poster to consider simply stamping the content
of the metal used on each piece, where practical. Adding a mark that
associated the piece with the maker helps to establish the origin and
maintain the history of the piece. In my case, it helps answer the
question who made pieces for seventy years. I would be very
interested in on what is legally required in he US, and I
suspect others might be as well. Thanks. Rob
Sorry but at the risk of starting an other verbal war, please
understand that ‘Hallmarking’ can only be done by an organisation
like Goldsmiths Hall in England after assay. A ‘Hall Mark’ comprises
of: a letter date stamp, a purity mark, a manufactures mark and a
place of marking, ie London.
You can stamp your work with your ‘Makers Mark’ and purity marks,
See other posts on this subject in Ganoksin records.
It is very interesting to me to see the different meanings attached
by different people to one set of words! Thanks for all the input!
As the daughter of an antique silverware buff, I DO know the meaning
and difference between a hallmark, a maker’s mark, a purity mark, a
date stamp, etc. So when I asked for thoughts on maker’s marks I was
actually being quite specific. Surprising to me that around the
world that term does NOT have a universally understood specific
So to clarify - I’m in the US, and as I understand the laws unless I
use a purity mark I do not HAVE to put any mark at all… That
said, I am at the point where I would LIKE to include a maker’s mark
on some of my work. I have been hand engraving, and am ready to do
something different. I think. Thus the request for ideas/thoughts.
So to refine a bit - if you do use a maker’s mark (something that
identifies who made the piece) - do you use it on EVERY piece? Or
only on some? How do you decide which to mark - what parameters do
you personally use? I’m curious as to the reasoning each of you
might use on when to mark and when not to mark. Personally, I do a
range of work from $8 retail up to over $2,000 retail currently, and
really feel no need or desire to mark the low end work in any way at
all… it helps pay the bills, folks love inexpensive handmade, my
galleries sell a good bit, everyone is happy. Fine. So at what point
in my continuum then does it become appropriate and/or desirable to
start including who made the piece?
Next refinement - in necklaces do you stamp/mark on a component or
add a tag with the mark?
Thanks for all the input - this has been helpful and enlightening!
My goal was to encourage the poster to stamp at least the content on
her work, where possible. I also wanted to encourage her to add some
kind of a mark to associate the work with her. Sorry if I used terms
incorrectly. It was not my intent to create confusion. You will not
start a verbal war with me, as I am always willing to learn from
others. As a retired educator of forty years, I encourage learning
in whatever way or form it can happen. Thanks. Rob
Beth, for what it is worth, I will add my two cents. I have a neat
little doo-y to make tags that have initials of FHS that I ordered
from someone on the net. It can also mark a bracelet or necklace
directly but I find people actually like the tags. But most of all,
people like the story of what it is, how it was created and why - and
the computer makes this easy.
You write such a good description of your pieces that you are
selling - it isn’t hard to print these up on some pretty paper and
include them. People appreciate the little touches, no matter how
much of the ready they are able to part with. (Ready in English terms
is cash by the way). Every sale is important and every client is
important - an $8 sale today could result in a $2000 one next year,
maybe the same person, maybe a friend.
Treat people right and they come back - as do your deeds. At least
that’s my theory. Every time you use a maker’s mark, it is
advertisement that YOU made the work and you are proud of being able
to do it.
Barbara, a friend in Canada who is fond of you, your family and your