Looking for tips on caring for this antique shell cameo, pearl, and diamond brooch

Hi,
I am looking for advice on how to best care for this brooch. I would like to remove some of the dirt in the fine details of the cameo. I am happy with the patina on the sterling silver but am wondering how to best clean up the diamonds and the 18kt gold. I got this piece at an auction. I know that it is antique but I am unsure of the date/ time frame in which it was made. If anyone could point out clues or give me advice on a general date that would be wonderful as well. There are no discernible hallmarks aside from one on the bar indicating that it is 18kt gold.

From what I have seen on previous discussions and a quick internet search. It looks like I should really only clean the cameo with warm water (maybe some very mild soap) and a q-tip but I do not believe that I will be able to get into the fine details on the cameo with a q-tip. I would like to clean up the gold and diamonds but am unsure what to use with the pearls and cameo so close by.

Any advice is welcome. Thank you!

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I so love a good cameo. It’so lovely I have some really nice old ones. Both shell and hand carved stone. Now that said….

It depends. Is this a shell cameo or a a stone cameo? As for the diamonds and pearls. Use only a mixture mild liquid soap’( not a strong detergent but a milder hand soap),and warm water on the pin. It shouldn’t affect the cameo. I love how the maker cut out the backs of the mounting on the diamond seats. AKA Ajoure. This is a top quality piece that was obviously done by a master craftsman. In addition to Q tips… I would recommend using a toothpick and or Eye Tees. They are used for eye makeup. They have a broad end and a pointed one. Perfect for getting into tiny places. You can get them on Amazon or a beauty supply place like Sally Beauty. They are also really useful when doing enameling.

I’d love to see the cameo when you have gotten it cleaned up.

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That is a beautiful piece. Looks like the god, Mercury. It looks like someone had to replace a pearl, and all they had on was fully drilled.

I’d change that pearl.

You have already gotten good advice on cleaning. Do not be aggressive, the pin has character as it is.

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I second the tooth pick as a cleaning tool. I go further with it. get the rounded ones they are better, not the flat type tooth picks. Then gently chew the tips enough to moisten and make the very tip pliable. You will still have the rigidity of the tooth pick just a mm or two above the chewed part. The chewed part is good at loosening the grime that gets into to the tight sections. The ridgid part then is able to get rid of the crud. I FOR ONE THINK JO HAEMER IS A JEWELRY TREASURE. She is a working jeweler who has more decades behind her in the industry than me. She has excellent advise we should all learn. Jo along with Julie and Rob keep me inspired to get back to my bench once my body has fully healed.

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Aw shucks. Thank you.

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The only thing I can add to the cleaning suggestions is to use a small, natural bristle brush after soaking. Soak the bristles for a few minutes before using as this will soften them.
As to the age, it is most likely 18th century but may be very early 19th, before tastes changed in the Regency/Empire period. The chain and safety pin are later, either an addition or a replacement. But a strong possibility is that the ring at the bottom edge was intended for the attachment of a pendant, either one that was removable or one that was damaged and lost.
Also, the head is of Medusa. There are other 18th century Italian examples of the gorgon with a beautiful face and the snakes downplayed, informed by the ancient Medusa Rondanini head, which was in the collection of the marchese Rondanini in the 18th century.

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I would clean this with Sparkle Sparkle jewelry cleaner made from Citrus, Aloe & Peppermint. Comes in a 1oz spray bottle and use a mild brush with lightweight strokes, rinse with water. 100% natural and works great. I can send you a bottle for free if you like. Contact me offline ken@dhfo.com

Good Luck

Ken

David H. Fell & Co. Inc.

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I have used a soft used toothbrush with soapy water to clean my old cameo. It gets into all the crevices and does not harm any of the pieces.

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