I just got my Paragon kiln controller today and its very programmable. One
feature is how fast each temperature is reached in temp rise per hour. like
500 degrees per hour. Maybe this is a dumb question but any input on how to
set that parameter? Am thinking of setting it to max so it just goes to
temp as fast as the elements can handle it? Dave
Art Jewelry for Conscious People
http://www.opendoor.com/stephensdesign/crystalguy.html
At 09:59 PM 11/21/96 -0800, Dave Stephens wrote:
I just got my Paragon kiln controller today and its very programmable. One
feature is how fast each temperature is reached in temp rise per hour. like
500 degrees per hour. Maybe this is a dumb question but any input on how to
set that parameter? Am thinking of setting it to max so it just goes to
temp as fast as the elements can handle it? Dave
Years ago when I tried that on a large flask, the excess water would come
to a boil and crack the investment. Today I find that it works fine on small
flasks.
E-mail: manmountaindense@knight-hub.com
WWW: http://www.knight-hub.com/manmtndense/bhh3.htm
Snail: POB 7972, McLean, VA 22106
Dave Stephens wrote:
I just got my Paragon kiln controller today and its very programmable. One
feature is how fast each temperature is reached in temp rise per hour. like
500 degrees per hour. Maybe this is a dumb question but any input on how to
set that parameter? Am thinking of setting it to max so it just goes to
temp as fast as the elements can handle it? Dave
Dave, I recommend a slower raise in temp so as not to shock the
investment by steaming out the water too fast. I’ll try to remember to
check what I use today - I know it’s pretty darned slow. I use a 12
hour burnout and it works great. Mike
Dave wrote:
I just got my Paragon kiln controller today and its very programmable.
One
feature is how fast each temperature is reached in temp rise per hour.
like
500 degrees per hour. Maybe this is a dumb question but any input on how
to
set that parameter? Am thinking of setting it to max so it just goes to
temp as fast as the elements can handle it? Dave
Dave:
Here are the burnout schedules I use with my controller. These came with my
controller and I have modified them by changing the 1st segment from 300F
to 200F. This way there is no chance for steam damage. I also increased the
hold time on the first segment to compensate for the lower temperature.
Anyway, I used the rates set by the manual. As you can see it changes with
the size of flask being used. Didn’t your controller come with burnout
schedules with rates?
Lots of luck, I think you are going to love it. Better living through
electronics! What are you going to do with all of your new found spare
time?
5 HOUR
Segment Rate Temp Hold time
1 999F 200F 1 HOUR
2 100F 350F 10 MIN
3 700F 1350F 1.5 HOURS
4 450F FINAL TEMP 99.99 HOURS
8 HOUR
Segment Rate Temp Hold time
1 999F 200F 2 HOUR
2 100F 350F 30 MINUTES
3 350F 1350F 1.5 HOURS
4 300F FINAL TEMP 99.99 HOURS
12 HOUR
Segment Rate Temp Hold time
1 999F 200F 2 HOURS
2 100F 350F 30 MIN
3 210F 1350F 3 HOURS
4 225F FINAL TEMP 99.99 HOURS
Kenneth Gastineau
gastin@mis.net
Dave, I recommend a slower raise in temp so as not to shock the
investment by steaming out the water too fast. I’ll try to remember to
check what I use today - I know it’s pretty darned slow. I use a 12
hour burnout and it works great. Mike
Mike: What I’m talking about in the programming of the segments is
expressed a rate of temperature rise from 1 degree to 999 degrees. So the
first stage would be like 250 degrees but then I’m supposed to set how FAST
it gets to that temp. Maybe this is just a feature on the Paragon
controllers. It also has a cone-fire feature, might be easier to program
that way.
Also, I’m using 2 1/4 by 2 or 2 1/2 inch flasks…Dave
Art Jewelry for Conscious People
http://www.opendoor.com/stephensdesign/crystalguy.html
Dave:
Here are the burnout schedules I use with my controller. These came with my
controller and I have modified them by changing the 1st segment from 300F
to 200F. This way there is no chance for steam damage. I also increased the
hold time on the first segment to compensate for the lower temperature.
Anyway, I used the rates set by the manual. As you can see it changes with
the size of flask being used. Didn’t your controller come with burnout
schedules with rates?
Kenneth Gastineau
gastin@mis.net
Kenneth: GREAT! Just what I was looking for! Its the RATE of temp rise I
didn’t quite grasp. The Paragon controller I got is designed for the
pottery industry so no burnout schedules or even a clue. It has ramp-hold,
or cone fire programming. I bought the 20 amp version thinking I should
plan for the future in case I need more capacity and it showed up with a 20
amp plug which looks like a 220 volt plug but smaller. I’m assuming I can
just put a regualr three prong plug on it and if I ever get a huge kiln I
can put the original plug back on and plug into a 20 amp circuit? The amps
are being drawn at the kiln not the timer. Maybe I’d better call the
company, damnit. Any clues here would be helpful. Its a 120 volt
controller/ 20 amp. Dave
Art Jewelry for Conscious People
http://www.opendoor.com/stephensdesign/crystalguy.html
Dave wrote:
I bought the 20 amp version thinking I should
plan for the future in case I need more capacity and it showed up with a
20
amp plug which looks like a 220 volt plug but smaller. I’m assuming I can
just put a regualr three prong plug on it and if I ever get a huge kiln I
can put the original plug back on and plug into a 20 amp circuit? The
amps
are being drawn at the kiln not the timer. Maybe I’d better call the
company, damnit. Any clues here would be helpful. Its a 120 volt
controller/ 20 amp. Dave
Dave:
I am not an electrician, but it sounds like your unit is for 220V. I don’t
think it is as easy as simply changing the plug. It may be easier to change
the outlet from the controller to a 110V, but then you would still need a
220V hookup in your shop, not a bad thing to have. Have an electrically
minded person explain how to build a box that would plug into the outlet of
the controller and convert the 220V to 110V. You could even fuse the box
for the proper amperage for your kiln and make it safer. Also this approach
would not void any warranty. Yep, better ask the company or an electrician
at least. I bet there is someone on this list that is certifiable
(electrically speaking that is.)
Hang in there, your headed on the right track. Close but no cigar, I bet
you could almost taste those computer generated wax fumes, heh.
Kenneth Gastineau
gastin@mis.net
Dave Stephens wrote: