Regarding your inquiry about paste wax being used to prevent copper
from tarnishing, I can tell you that I used it on my first project
for school almost four years ago and it’s been tarnish-free ever
since. However, I don’t wear the item. If this was something that was
to be worn, you’re probably better off with some sort of lacquer. I
don’t recall if I used Johnson’s Paste Wax specifically, but I’m sure
a visit to Lowe’s or some home improvement store would give you a
There are other paste waxes that should do just as well as
Johnson’s. One that comes to mind is called Butcher’s Bowling Alley
Wax, available at a good hardware store. I have had good long term
success with Krylon Clear Acrylic spray on some large copper fold
form wall relief sculptures. It is available in both matte and gloss
I'm having a hard time finding Johnson's paste wax. Would another
paste wax work, or is there something about Johnson's paste wax
I used Renaissance Wax on a neckpiece a while back and it has held
up really well. The appearance of the silver is somewhat “white” or
"cloudy" however. I think I needed to buff it more than I did. You
can find this wax at www.woodcraft.com (it’s where I got it). It’s a
supplier for woodworkers.
I don’t know if this will be harder to find than Johnson’s Paste
floor Wax but I have used “Mothers” Carnuba wax, for fine automotive
finishes, with great success on holloware, sculptures, and jewelry. I
think it is harder than floor wax, you use less - so not as great a
chance for build up, and the smell is wonderbar (carnua wax is from a
tree). Try looking in a large hardware store or any place that stocks
wax, well I buy carnuba wax in a bar form, apply it to a new muslin
buff and keep only for the wax. Then I buff my silver with it. I also
buff my finished enamels with it. It doesn’t take much. I learned
this from a wood turner.
I like using ACF-50, it works great and you only need to spray it on
once every couple years if its worn a lot. A 13 oz can is $13.00 US
and you can protect a heck of a lot of jewelry with this stuff.
ANTI-CORROSION,13OZ AEROSOL An ultra thin compound, ACF-50
will penetrate tight lap seams, around rivets and screws,
between spars and skins. Effective on all metals, cables,
switches and avionics. Actually displaces corrosion causing
moisture. Then it acts as a barrier, keeping moisture away and
terminating electrolysis for about one and a half years.
MIL-C-81309 E type II & III. Minimum flash point 140 degrees F.
ORM-D Requires ground shipping only.
I’d like to thank everyone for their responses. The one
consideration I have to make is my necklace is a finished product,
and includes red suede leather. I need to be very careful regardless
of what product I use, so I do not stain the red leather I used in
the necklace. I’m guessing that applying with a fine brush will aid
in this issue.
I have been using Renaissance wax which seems to be a standard for
conservation. It is a bit more expensive than the floor and
automobile waxes which are probably fine for jewelry. Any silicone in
the regular commercial waxes are potentially a problem on furniture
and wood objects that may need refinishing someday. SEE: http://www.restorationproduct.com or just google Renaissance wax
I have had good long term success with Krylon Clear Acrylic spray
on some large copper fold form wall relief sculptures. It is
available in both matte and gloss finishes.
We use Krylon clear Matt acrylic fixative on cupric nitrate patina.
It gives a harder more scratch-resistant finish and doesn’t look
quite as ‘chalky’. Because it’s matt - it still somewhat maintains
the patina finish.