Hello,
I would appreciate advice on spot welding. I am considering of purchasing Lampert PUK 5.1 for welding tiny chains to silver sterling sheet pendant. Is it possible to do with this welder, or there is something more efficient ?
Thank you in advance.
Kind regards,
Milka
I have a PUK 5.1 that I purchased a year ago. All I can tell you is that, at least for me, it has had a steep learning curve, especially for sterling silver. I have used it very successfully on 14K gold and steel. I can close sterling silver jump rings and tack sterling silver bezels to a backplate prior to soldering. I have yet to successfully fill a porosity or weld a seam with filler wire. Lambert has a lot of online help and take a look at Jeffery Herman’s website. Jeff is a master at using the PUK 5.1. They are expensive and I know that I have a lot to learn yet. Good luck…Rob
I have an Orion 150s2 and it has taken me a long time as well. That said it has totally changed my fabrication. I can weld (actually i tack it with small welds) a piece of jewelry together and then solder it all at once. I wish I had purchased one 10 years ago. One important tip it hold the piece motionless and then you will get clean welds. Good luck, Vince LaRochelle
The PUK 5.1 will work just fine. It isn’t all that difficult to use, actually it’s quite intuitive. But is isn’t like anything else on your bench so it will take a bit of work. And I use it quite successfully on silver. Depending on where you are, you should be able to find someone who has it and they could demo what you want to do. Or contact me thru my website - www.judyhoch.com
I have practically no experience with a pulse arc welder, but I do have over 20 years on lasers.
I did do a short seminar at Stuller, on I believe an Orifin(?)
I was very impressed at what a pulse arc machine can do, and with 2 reps watching over my shoulder, offering advice on the settings, I sucessfully rechanneled an Opal inlay, Sterling ring. The 2 technologies are in some ways quite similar.
Having said this, welding fine chain is problematic on the laser, and I would expect it to be more so with electric arc.
My suggestion would be to use the torch for this application.
If solder is first applied to the fine chain, and then the heavier item wbich I am attaching that chain to is heated until the solder on the chain flows toward the heated, heavier piece, the chain is less likely to commit suicide, while making a good joint.
Just my opinion.
