I’ve been reading a lot of responses to the jewelry career
issue. I think my experience is one that people in other careers
who are considering jewelry making can relate to. I apologize in
advance for the length.
When I was younger, I was always steered towards academia and
white collar professions. I took the hardcore advanced placement
courses and it wasn’t until I was a senior in high school with
enough extra credits to sink a ship that I took art classes. Then
when it came to college, I wasn’t encouraged to declare fine
arts. I did end up transferring to fine arts and graduated with a
BFA, but I was so spooked about making a living as an artist that
I got a professional diploma in secondary art ed and was a thesis
away from a masters in art ed. Teaching, however, was not the
answer at the time because the Dept. of Education was cutting
back the arts, music, drama and other “nonessential courses” in
the public schools.
Still afraid to attempt making a living doing art, I fell back
on my academia background and got an MBA in marketing from
Northwestern and worked in national packaged goods advertising
for five years. Needless to say, a career marketing the likes of
Era detergent, Hawaiian Punch or Hidden Valley Ranch didn’t
exactly warm my heart. At first, the intellectual challenge and
fierce pace was exciting. After a while, I found little
satisfaction and felt burned out. I finally walked away and took
six months to reflect on what would make me happy. Jewelry, which
I dabbled in during my undergrad years, came to mind. I got some
tools together and designed and produced a line of sterling
silver earrings and pins and consigned them at about a dozen
jewelry galleries. The work sold, but it clearly wouldn’t support
me. My savings were depleting so I figured that I had to stop the
bleeding. I decided that a jewelry job that provided education,
experience and covered basic expenses and health insurance would
suffice until I increased my skills.
I worked for a jewelry manufacturer/retailer doing repairs, wax
work, remounts and minor custom jobs for 1 1/2 years. Then I
worked for a mall jewelry store as the “Fishbowl” jeweler, doing
repairs, remounts and small custom jobs. Simultaneously, I
invested any spare money into books, tools, gems and workshops.
Some of my best times were spent at Alan Revere’s. Michael Good
and Adolfo Mattiello workshops were my favorites. An added bonus,
Adolfo became a good friend and technical advisor. Then my big
breakthrough came when a jeweler friend of mine quit his job to
go to college, ironically, the reverse of me. I auditioned with
his ex-boss over two Saturdays. At the end of the second
Saturday, I was offered the job because I was profoundly
educable, had strong esthetics and good judgment (asked the right
questions at critical junctures). He also said that I better not
quit after one year because then he wouldn’t get any return on
his investment of time. I promised a minimum of three years and
ended up staying for five.
My boss, Walter Kentzler, was a classically trained (Pforzheim
complete with fulltime jewelry school and apprenticeship under a
master from age 14 to 18) German goldsmith. He was simply
inspiring - a fabulous gold and platinumsmith and stone setter.
No glue here, just perfectly cut seats with thorough contact and
no rocking. He was also a terrific complex clasp and mechanism
fabricator. You can’t learn this in any school. Your best bet is
to work for a good jeweler and be grateful that you’re getting
paid to learn instead of racking up student loans and learning a
fraction of what you’ll need to build a career.
I have been doing jewelry for almost 13 years and currently work
for a mid-sized manufacturer doing designing, one-of-a-kinds,
modelmaking, training and R&D projects. And thanks to my MBA and
problem-solving background, I also write equipment user manuals
and “how to” papers for the company. On the side, I do freelance
work and private commissions. The high cost of living in Hawaii,
my mortgage and an aversion to 75+ hour weeks (been there, done
that) keeps me from quitting my day job.
Bottom line, even though I wasn’t ready to take the plunge into
jewelry making after college, I eventually came around. Being
cautious, it just took me a longer time. I had to experience
first hand that doing a job that provided money, status and
benefits, but no spiritual and emotional rewards was deadly. I
had to realize that earning 2/3s less money and taking a demotion
in social status was okay with me. So what if friends from my
other life think I’m “slumming” and not living up to my
"potential". So if you’re ready to take the plunge now, go for
it. But if you need to check out other avenues or deal with risk
aversion, jewelry making will always be there for you. You just
can’t expect to turn the world on its ear first time out. It’ll
take time, good fortune and the exposure to the likes of Walter
Kentzler, Michael Good, Alan Revere and Adolfo Mattiello.
Again, apologies for verbosity. Donna