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J.Grahl Design (Pearls)


Lovely work. Setting the pearl in an open shell is so perfect. I find the multi-prong mounting for the diamond unusual. Any special reason for this design?
Judy in Kansas


I have no experience with the brand you’ve shown.
I would certainly try and test it.
The primary thing is to remember to blow out the dust from the hole you’ve drilled… VERY gently.
There a so many cultured pearls, especially the cheapest ones , that are all nucleus and very little nacre.
You don’t want to blow the Nacre off the pearl, Always loupe the drill hole after it’s clean.
You’ll see a distinguishing line between the shell nucleus and the nacre.
I only use quick setting glues on very tightly fitted posts because the viscosity of the glue is so thin.
If you try to use a slow, thick epoxy you’ll create an air pocket that will want to push the pearl off the post (Hydraulics)… However, if there is slop in the fit (just a bit) then thicker glues make sense.
You can always texture your post with small bites from your side cutters (like raising burrs). And that will help.
I really don’t want to recommend any brand of glue, you could mix or fit things differently and get a completely different result.
Thanks, Jim


Hi Judy,
Just for fun…(reason for design)
plus there is a bit of a floral feel to the piece,
The shell could also be interpreted as a petal (it’s either) just going for form and having fun.


Hi Jim,

Ok, thank you! I hear you. I will definitely start to experiment, and focus on a nice tight fit, with some “teeth” for the super glue to grab onto. Excited!



Tahiti meets Japan…
Commissioned by Robert Wan, (Tahiti Pearls) with Akoya supplied by Assael.
Design, Plat. fab. & all construction / setting, JGD.
The pendant is also a removable enhancer.
This also shows a pencil over velum render. The ring and bracelet were completed too but without photography unfortunately.
Circa 1995 (ish)


Old & New…
Lalique, blue opalescent glass tulip beads, Natural pearls, South Sea in the drops, Santa Margarita for the rounds, unheated sapphire beads, mine cut diamond, pinkish-brown.
18K rose gold & enamel, JGD, Arts & Crafts styling.
Cast /fabricated construction.
These beads were given to me by a client, then in her 90’s, simply because of a deep friendship we’d forged over a lifetime.
She said, " someday I want you to do something special with them".
I’ll leave that up to you-all, but these glass Lalique pieces are over 100 years old now , the pearls about the same and I’m not that far away…
They’re certed, Gubelin, GIA.


Thank you for this photo of the set which is much better than the previous similar photo in this thread The Art and Jewelry of J.Grahl Design

It looks like this photo has more light, which clearly shows how the rose gold wire in the perforation of the Lalique beads looks like fire in the opalescent glass.

Are the tiny enameled beads also made from rose gold? Are the ear hooks also made from rose gold?

Even though I know the glass enhances the color of the metal in the perforation, the ear wires look so much darker. Is there a patina on the rose gold?


Hi Betty,
All is Rose, there is an oxide on all the pieces (just natural, from heating, Some I polished more than others, some , less so.
The enamel is over rose beads.
Thanks, Jim


Things that move (You…)
Some stuff just doesn’t need to make sense…
So here you have a beautiful, 12 mm Tahitian black (cultured) Pearl… that just hangs around (and around).
it flops back & forth when worn, and when it’s off the finger, its a toy …
Hand fabricated in platinum.


That ring is fabulous…and fun. Your pieces amaze me. The previous ornate, detailed piece with the Lalique pieces (I collect art glass and own some Lalique, which I am fond of), and then this piece, completely different, which I gravitate toward.

What is the accent stone? A colored diamond?


I LOVE how the pearl is perfectly centred within the “circle” of the ring band, with exactly the same amount of space all round, between the two. I could only ever hope to achieve that sort of precision!



Actually Helen, if you look ver closely you will see the pearl is very slightly right of center.

Jerry in kodiak


Hi Lisa
Black diamond on one side (pavilion out),
White diamond on the other.

Precision = Time + calipers + Time + being very anal…

See… Jerry has calipers…
(one does have to have a little tolerance for the piece to swing without binding, a particular quirk of platinum…)


It’s hard to tell exactly, as the ring is not straight on toward the camera. It is slightly askew - at a jaunty angle. I wasn’t talking about just left to right, but in all directions. Looks pretty damned fine to me.



Thanks Helen,


Peas in a pod…
A gardner’s dream.
Here is a very personal piece for a passionate gardner (an Attorney on the side…).
Hand fabricated in platinum, 22K yellow gold and 18K green gold, all holding undrilled, graduated, Akoya cultured pearls.
This one re defines a “Ton” of work… but oh-so-fun.


Hand fabricated platinum hoops with Tahitian cultured pearls.
It’s for for me to see the color shifts developers the light hits the pearl. The Pearls are matched, the angle of the lighting has them appear different.


Pearls, through history, have inspired many magical and mystical visions.
natural pearls are rarely round, more likely to be a bit lumps, or to the extreme, “Baroque”.
This is a rare, twinned (like two individual pearls grown together) and, in addition, having a rare ,naturally “Hammered” surface.
We couldn’t help it… “Frosty” came into being. fabricated in 18K yellow gold and accented with crushed black jade for the coal bits.


South Sea cultured Pearl, Platinum (enhancer) Bale, Platinum “Wheat” chain…
Every day / Every evening…


All Crossed Up…
As a design element, the form is timeless.
As an icon, at times heart warming, others, polarizing.
As a symbol, surprisingly, not originally Christian…
As jewelry, a fun form to play with.
Platinum, Diamond, Cultured pearls.