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Invisible setting, how is it done?


#1

Red,

I mean I want to be able to do it. We also try to have the
jeweler return to the manufacturer, but we keep getting custom
work that the customer requests invisible setting. I turn it
down, I would like to learn to do it if practical. My second
choice is to farm out the setting, in my design. We make the ring
leaving the area to be invisibly set blank and have someone else
put in the grid and the stones.

My impression is alot of these are poorly set with badly cut
stones. I got a letter from Kattan on Friday saying that they
guarantee all of their invisibly set mountings and will replace
at no charge any stones lost, only if they do all of the sizing
and head changes. They say that any heating at all, even changing
a head can loosen the stones. I am not even sure how the
manufacturer tightens the center row in a three row panel. Often
the stones on either side are not really pushing up against it.
That would be a chip risk anyway, I would think. I know there is
a groove in the pavillion of the stone that clicks into bars of
the grid, it seems pretty flimsy. I saw pictures of the crown
jewels and there were these feathers that were invisibly set with
rubies, The stones were basically tongue and groove and the whole
panel of stones was slightly concave with an outer bezel
applying enough pressure to hold them in place. It looked like if
you pulled one out all of the stones would fall out (wouldn’t the
queen be mad). I know thats not how modern invisible setting is
done, in fact I understand how it works, I just want to know how
to make one from scratch. Can anyone help me?

Mark Parkinson


#2

< I know thats not how modern invisible setting is
< done, in fact I understand how it works, I just want to know
< how to make one from scratch. Can anyone help me? >>

Mark

Sorry I can not help I do my very best to stay away from these
nightmare pieces. I have enough trouble in my life already. I
have heard that there are several companies in Isreal that do
this type of work quite well. Perhaps that might be an avenue to
check out. RED


#3

I pledge to you all, I will make it my personal quest to find a
way for the little guy (me and maybe you) to satisfy the
invisibly set diamond needs of your customers in your designs!

You can all sleep a little better tonight. And don’t wait up
this may take awhile.

Mark Parkinson


#4

Thanks for the assurance… calgang


#5

The April 1997 issue of Lapidary Journal has an article on
invisible settings called Seamless written by Ettagale Blauer.
It explains the basic technique and details. It also says that
only a few (very few) people know how to do it. It takes either
the jeweler and lapidary working very closely together or
someone who is both, and the very best in both skills. I’m not a
lapidary so forgive me if I give the in a confusing
way, but the article says that the metalsmith constructs tracks
for the stones, like construction beams, that are on the
underlying structure. The lapidary then cuts and shaves the
stones to fit and cuts tiny grooves in them to slide on the
tracks. Forgive me if someone has already given this answer, but
I’m way, way way behind in reading my mail. If you can get ahold
of the article it’s well worth reading.

Patricia


#6

Patricia,

Really behind in my reading… PCs been down for about a month…

While in atlanta mart I ran across a jeweler that did Invisible settings…
If you haven’t seen the work … look for it…

Actually the diamonds were all ‘channeled’. and the mounting formed the
frame… these particular settings could be thought of as a tit-tat-tow
diagram with the outside edges closeed on all sides(got it?) … The 9, 1
ct stones, it
appeared , had nothing holding them in place… couldnt see the frame work
which was below the girdles.

lots of work… but what a price he put on his work!!! Was backed up for
6 months!!!

Jim B

“A Boone/Edgewater game reunion is when nothing helps you recongize you old
teammates as much as their nametags.”


#7

We are experts at invisible setting of diamonds, from the most simple to
the most complicated.

We are a factory of diamond cutters and setters working together to
achieve the very finest quality in all types of invisible setting.

at your service…

SPECTRA GEMS LTD. / ISRAEL
Jeremy Graus


#8

Hi if you find out how they did it please let me know… I have
always wanted to do that kind of setting… Thanks but what is a
tow after the tit tat “tow” setting… I understood the closed in
on all outsides …calgang


#9

Hi if you find out how they did it please let me know… I have
always wanted to do that kind of setting… Thanks but what is a
tow after the tit tat “tow” setting… I understood the closed in
on all outsides

Sorry,
I was referring to the game… tit-tat-toe a game of often
referred to as a game of Xs and Os… A game of three across and
u win each person of a game of 2 getting a turn alternately…
The frame a square divided into 9 smaller squares. … the
invisible setting is the frame between the 9 small squares…

In an inviable setting U can’t see the frame only the diamond
which appear to be touching or right next to each other with no
support in between.

Jim

Business needs more orders from customers and fewer from the government.