Pretty easy, Jon, if you’re trying to do what I think you are.
First, use a sep disk to carefully grind off one of the heads on the
rivit. Then push what’s left out of the holes with a blunt ended tiny
rod, something like an old small bur with the cutting part ground
off. If it’s hard to drive through, you can back it up over a draw
plate, selecting a hole big enough to let the remaining head of the
rivit pass through.
Then, draw down a wire for a snug fit in the holes. You’ll need a
piece about twice the length of what the rivit would be in length.
Ball up one end slightly with a torch. Then, find a hole in your draw
plate the fits the wire snugly, insert the wire, and forge the ball
down flat against the plate, leaving about 1/3 mm thickness. You can
then put it in a pin vise and using a sanding disk, reduce the
diameter to something that looks right. Put a slight taper on the
other end of this wire.
Now assemble the parts, taking care of the orientation of the spring
so that it operates correctly, and start inserting the tapered end of
the wire, wiggling it a bit to get it to go through the holes in both
When you’ve got it snug, with the head on the wire against metal,
cut the other end off, leaving extra length past the other side of
the assembly, a lenght extending about 1&1/3 the thickness of the
wire. Brace the head of this new rivit on a steel block, taking care
that only the head mades contact and the rest of the earring back is
clear so you don’t damage it.
Using a rivit hammer, slowly and patiently brad over the end util
you have rivited the assembly together. You can use a cup bur to
finish both ends of the rivit, selecting a size that will give you a
nice, rounded rivit head.
David L. Huffman