Inlay metal into wood?

Jewelry Discussion
21 
Photo C. http://www.ganoksin.com/ftp/395975655.jpg Even ebony isn't
strong enough to contain fine silver as it work hardens, when you
are trying to spread it into a swallow tail groove.

I looked at picture and I think I am beginning to understand the
problem. Let me assure that ebony is strong enough. Among some
African tribes ebony was used as material for making execution
swords. In skilled hands, ebony sword can behead with one stroke, so
there is plenty of strength.

My first question would be about the source of ebony. If you use
ready made pieces, it may not be the ideal situation. If wood is sawn
at high speed, with large saws, I can guaranty that upper layer is
damaged and not suitable for inlay. That is one potential problem.
Another is tapping wire into the groove is not that simple. There is
much more technique that simple word “tapping” implies. At that point
I suggest getting some face to face instructions. Some things simply
has to shown. There is a limit to descriptive explanation.
Successful inlay depends on technique, design, and materials. None is
more important than the other.

Leonid Surpin

22

Suzanne Lindquist,
http://www.ganoksin.com/gnkurl/eb

has an entire line of jewelry made of ebony with inlaid silver. Maybe
she could help.

Judy Hoch

23

hi carla, i would suggest the use of the square cut with square wire,
glued with natural hide glue. There is a Titebond hide glue that can
be used without heat. You’ll have great results. The only problem is
that hide glue is water soluble, but for the wire to get loose you
will need to inmerse the piece in water for an hour or so… so i
think there will be no risks.

Greetings,
Nicolas Olmos.

24

Carla,

It occurs to me that you might attain some success using a trick my
father used when needing to tighten a screw which had stripped it’s
threads in hardwood. Using a smalll brush, apply a little water to
the wood as you place your inlay. The wood will swell a little as it
absorbs the water. If you’ve made your inlay cuts accurately enough
and you’re using round wire, you may find that this is all you’d
need to achieve a firm hold on the wire. Keep us posted.

Peace,
Ken Weston

25

Carla,

Hope this helps. I made an inquiry with my friend who is an expert
at this.

Begin of forwarded message

Re Glue:

I am undecided about the longevity of superglue, but I have found
that most inlay luthiers have been using it for 20 years now,. The
formulas have changed and are better now, since I first looked at
them… I currently have an experiment going with gluing Brass and
Rosewood, and the superglue recommended (Zap-a-Gap) has shown the
best results! Lots to cover here.

For Carla:

Gunsmith swallowtail is the most secure, but the process could be a
little different than Carla used.

I would suggest making the grove, and roughing up the silver with 80
G sandpaper before gluing it in with epoxy. I have had success
lightly taping edges of the silver in with a hammer to slightly
fatten the square side of the silver, swallow-tailing it it ever so
slightly in the groove. The epoxy is the bushing layer that locks it
all together. hammering the silver will work harden and pop out, as
you have seen.

The marquetry approach is what I use now for complex metal wood
inlay, where the metal and ebony veneer (same thickness) are affixed
together, stack cut with a fine jewelers blade, pattern assembled
and taped together with water gum tape on the ‘show’ face. It is then
glued onto to the ebony sub-straight with tinted epoxy or better
yet, with high tack fish glue. The gum tape is sanded off, and piece
is polished.

The knife line technique does not work very well, since I have
discovered that the silver gets pushes out of the slot after some
time, since the wood is always moving with moisture changes, even if
it is lacquered. Wood sort of squeezes the inlay out.

The final way that most traditional inlay is done, is to cut the
silver shape out, scribe a line onto the ebony, route out and glue
the inlay in, being careful when sanding flush, as the metal heats up
rapidly, and will expand right out of the recess.

This inlay technique takes more time, and can be cost effective if
all the inlay and recess is milled CNC, production style.

Paul Schurch