Injected Wax Problems

Hi Cindy, Though it’s been a few days since you posted this and I’ve
been away from my computer since then, I think I may be able to help
you with your modeling problem: leave the mold release for other
tasks and use good ol’ talcum powder, instead. As I understand it,
mold release is for spraying onto your metal original,before
vulcanizing those sheets of Castaldo (or other) rubber around it.
Once the mold has been created though, you need to do two things, in
order for your molds to perform properly. First, take a scalpel or
razor knife and create radial slits around your mold’s cavities, so
that the airinside them can escape (once you’ve sealed the mouth of
the mold against the wax injector and begun injecting wax). If you’re
trapping the air in the mold, it’ll have no other optionbut to mix
with the molten wax.Next, you’ll need togently coat the inside of
the mold with a thin layer of a non-viscous release agent, such as
talc or corn starch, which will both allow the wax and rubber to
separate after cooling and enable all of the finest details to be
reproduced. The way Vasken Tanielian taught this at Revere was to
take a square piece of muslin (sheetcloth) – about 8" on a side –
place a tablespoon or so of talcum powder in the middle, and then
pull the corners together andtie a string around the centre, so it
resembles a Halloween “ghost”. Once this is done, you simply whack
this ‘talcum duster’ against each half of the rubber mold before
putting the two together andinjecting wax into them. The combination
of this mold release powder and the air-release slits should take
care of most of your problems.Good luck to you!

All my best,