I swear I'm a great jeweller,so sorry about all the questions

So I’ve used my Smith’s little torch a few times now and I’m seeing that it takes some getting used to because so far I’ve melted 2 things, one being a mother’s ring that I was almost done making for my mother.

Any advice on how hot would be great. Im not enjoying the extra steps, but i guess that takes getting used to. Is there anything to get to not have to constantly turn the tanks on and off?

All my questions are because of all the new lobg awaited equipment lol

Im thinking the argon regulator i got at airgas needs to be sent back to them and i need to get the one at pepe. They keep saying it doesnt matter, but it does, plus theirs has safety features too.

So i bought my kiln, all my wax, equipment etc and realized "oh you also have to have a meltibg pot, which im ordering the 1st, but theres no way i can get a vacuum kit. Any workaround there?

Again, sorry for all the ridiculous questions.


regarding your kiln, wax, vacumn question…are you referring to burning out wax and vacumn casting?…or are you referring to making rubber molds from metal masters and then making
injection wax models…?

perhaps there are casting classes or workshops that you can attend, to learn about casting with the different types of equipment and determine which you prefer



When I use my little smith torch (propane / oxy) I turn the bottles and regulators on, solder, and leave the setup ready to go til the end of the day, when I turn off the oxy, then the gas, in that order, then bleed the lines. I don’t turn everything off every time.

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Thank gosh. I stopped using it and went back to my hand held because i got so frustrated.


regarding your comment on the little torch, and heat…i saw a video long ago that suggested pointing the torch flame toward a soldering block, and then moving the flame in and out…observing the soldering block…as it turns red…watching the red area get smaller and bigger…

and observing where the flame tip is in relation…the hottest part of the flame is at the tip of the blue inner cone…

also, doing the same thing, with scrap metal, and observing it as it heats up…and when it starts to melt…



The more fuel and oxygen the hotter the flame.
Take some copper scraps and use different temperature solders and practice some soldering. Flame adjustment starts with the Regulators. Depending on the fuel your using there are recommended settings and the same for the oxygen. Metal thickness: 1/16 torch tip no. Drill size 56 oxygen regulator pressure PSI
8-20. Acetylene regulator pressure PSI 5.
This is an example. Very important to pay attention to these numbers.
For other mixtures of fuel gasses used with oxygen you’ll have to look up for your particular set up.
Your question about going through the turning on and off your equipment.
When dealing with explosive gasses ! Safety
Is always important! No short cuts!
If you’re leaving your work station for a short while make sure your torch is secure. The valves on your hand piece need only hand tightening because too much tightening will ruin the seat . You should take one apart to understand how they work or have someone at the welding supply show you.
Leaving for longer periods of time. Take the time to releave the pressure on the diaphragm in the regulator also drain the lines and mixing chamber. Tanks should be off and regulators all register, 0 .
Sorry when it comes to safety there are no short cuts. If a fire happens while you’re away and your tanks are on. It could make a bad situation worse.


Thanks so much for this. My neighbor owns a jewelry store and came over to help me get over my fear after our farmhouse burned down. He turned on the propane then my oxygen concentrator and i about cried lol is it just at the torch its import to do oxygen on first or did he mess up? He also said while im working its ok to keep the propane tank on and just have my torch off so i can turn it on and off as needed. Im starting to see that many have different ways and its frustrating. Honestly i feel to nervous to leave my torch w just the torch knobs turned off. My thought was im supposed to turn on the propane at the tank, then switch on my oxygen concentrator and let it run then turn on propane torch knob and then the oxygen torch knob slowly adding it?

Sounds like he told you right. Fuel first then add oxygen. When you’re at the bench and aren’t using the torch you can still be ready to use it. As long as your present and aware of what is going on (no gas leaks, or doing anything that could cause problems) gas lines are safe with gas in them, with valves shut. (Hand piece). Main tank valve closed when you are finished for the day and lines are bled releaving pressure on your regulators so the diaphragms don’t wear out prematurely. Just a matter of understanding how the system works and being precautious with explosive gasses. Fuel first then introduce oxygen.


Thanks so much!

acetylene burns very hot, both with air and hotter yet with oxygen. oxygen propane burns very hot also… propane/air for that matter is also plenty hot…I’ve had accidents with overheating and melting down my work…there are color tables that tell you the temperature of your work by visual optical pyrometry…dull red, to yellow white…orange yellow to yellow is 2,000 to 2,200 F…too hot except for melting…each color tells you the temperature…you can find a table on wikipedia, and color charts online…if you are working on large pieces with fine details, it gets very easy to overheat and melt the details, while underheating the large work…I used disposable canister air propane for almost everything except for melting…it takes some getting used to to estimate temperature by color… you have to keep the flame constanly moving to achieve even heating.

So far as using oyxgen and gas mixtures, StevenL is absolute correct in how to handle gases… turn the fuel on first and light, then add oxygen and adjust the flame… more oxygen for a given flow of fuel gas gives a hotter oxidizing flame. Less oxygen gives a reducing flame…turn off the oxygen first before turning off the fuel… doing the opposite will make the flame pop out…basically a small explosion. purging the lines and depressurizing them after use will prolong the life of the hoses. Do so after the main valves are shut… using acetylene indoors has a disadvantage…turning on and lighting it causes a plume of soot before you add oxygen. Propane doesn’t make soot…work in a well ventilated area… reducinng flames create carbon monoxide, but the amount made by making jewelry is pretty minimal… more of a prblem with gas stoves that show yellow flames due to the air intake ports being plugged…The pressure in the lines determines the flow rate once the valves at the torch head are opened…more gas and oxygen leads to a stronger, hotter flame. Good for melting but dicey for soldering…