you could try oxalic acid. it removes rust stains from quartz, don't know how it will react with the metal of the file.
You might also TEST some of the phosphoric acid systems.
jesse
Another jeweler told me to get Naval Jelly to remove rust from
tools. I had not had a big issue with rust until recently when I
forgot to close a window one evening. Matters have become worse
recently when my sink clogged and had sitting water in the space for
a while. I am going to try it on Friday because my kids come with me
to work on other days. The packaging states that it needs good
ventilation. I picked it up at the same place I get my oxygen.On
occasion in the past, I have used vinegar to remove small amounts of
rust.
I will keep a look out for camphor spirits to help maintain tools-
thanks for the advice. And start covering the ones exposed to the
air.
What’s wrong with using Brownpolymer on the tools it stops moisture
and acids from attacking the metals once applied stays on for a long
time. I’m just would like to hear why not to use the substance and
why WD-40 is better always has to be reapplied wipes off and
transfers. Brownpolymer once put on stays on doesn’t have to be
reapplied and prevent metals from corroding. I like feed back so I
can improve the product if I can.
Randy
AKA Enjen Joes
I’ve been using butchers wax for years with great results. The
problem with oils is that they attract dust, and as everyone knows a
spec of dust left on a tool will make an impression on the piece
that’s being hammered.
Jeff Herman
Mary,
Just about anything with phosophoric acid will work. Naval Jelly is a
traditional rust remover, but I’ve also heard people getting good
results with colas also. I think we just had a thread in which this
was discussed recently. It was in May in the “Instant Copper
Cleaner” thread. People were talking about Lime A Way.
Good luck!
Mike DeBurgh, GJG
Henderson, NV
-For those who have a series of hammers- both for ferrous and
non-ferrous artists or anything small… I go the local ABC
(liquor/spirits) store- ask for the “Crown Royal” bags. They are
velvet, come with a drawstring, and in the stores that supply
resturants- they just throw the bags away- so they have been free in
my travels! This works like the golf-club covers you see out and
about on the course!
-To prep the bag- just go get a few old clean washcloths and
impregnate them with a touch of 3-in-1 oil, cut into pieces and
place one in each bag. after you use your hammer/stake/whatever, put
bag on and rub as bit. I store the bags on the hammers with taped on
labels to identify my fave hammer heads.
-The velvet protects, and the cost can’t be beat! If you dont like
the oil rag idea- spritz WD-40 on the head, then place in bag, and
rub before storing!
-Be safe and enjoy the days! -
Duncan
Allan has a good point- but be careful about using dessicant packets
from shoes and packing stores… they as well HOLD moisture and with
temp changes in shops can actually release moisture if the ambient
humidity drops (as in air conditioning or dry heat situations) and
create humid “spots” in the bags your hammers/tools are stored in.
You can use these devices best if you just make a day or two every
6-months to “dry-out” the packets in an oven set to warm for 2-4
hours and left open a bit to outlet the humidity. If you have the
color-react dessicant it will turn back to its original color. Just
remember to do it regularly- and 6 months is just a suggestion!
Here is a US link to a supplier if anyone is interested- another
low-cost source for these dessicants is any higher end shoe store.
http://www.ecompressedair…com/desiccant/silicagel.shtml
Hi Folks…
What's wrong with using Brownpolymer on the tools it stops moisture and acids from attacking the metals once applied stays on for a long time. I'm just would like to hear why not to use the substance and why WD-40 is better always has to be reapplied wipes off and transfers. Brownpolymer once put on stays on doesn't have to be reapplied and prevent metals from corroding. I like feed back so I can improve the product if I can.
A while ago when it first came out I got some of the Brownpolymer,
and applied it to my pliers that aren’t stainless…
I’m not near the ocean, but SE Wisconsin…Our top 7 polluters are
coal-burning power plants, and the Summers tend to be humid…
Also, since the stroke, don’t use them as much…[G]…
Stuff works great…
Thanks, Randy…
Gary W. Bourbonais
L’Hermite Aromatique
A.J.P. (GIA)
i like gaudy socks–bright colors, stripes, holiday-related socks.
after a while the elastic in the socks fail so that they won’t stay
up anymore. then i use the socks to cover my hammers after spraying
wd-40. the only downside is that i don’t always remember what
pattern sock has what hammer, so i have to feel the head. if i used
them everyday, i would remember.
A reliable dehumidifier has been a lifesaver for me - it’s not humid
here year-round, but when it is humid, it can really take a toll on
tools.
Of course, a dehumidifier won’t do anything to prevent rust that is
caused by acid, and won’t do anything for tools that are already
rusty. But as a preventative measure, it will help protect your
tools - your whole shop, from rust. Mine has been a vital player in
my shop protecting my tools and absolutely worth every penny. If it
broke down tomorrow, I’d bite the bullet, run out the same day and
buy another one. It’s that important to me.
John
This used to be a big issue with me. When I started, the only pickle
that we used was Hydrochloric acid. This is the traditional pickle
used for everything in Venezuela. As we were taught to quench our
work in the acid itself, imagine the splashing and vapor. Well, of
course HCL evaporates, so before long every tool on my bench was
covered with an orange fuzz. Not having access to Sparex (or Orchid
at that point) I lived with it, keeping tools covered and as far
away from the acid as possible, well oiled and spending half an hour
at the end of each week cleaning up any rusted tools with a brass
brush and fine emery. After joining Ganoksin and reading the Orchid
posts I was able to use PH plus or Sodium Bisulfate as a pickle. As
this does not evaporate, the problem has all but disappeared. I still
use acid from time to time on gold pieces, but by keeping the acid
capped, quenching the piece in water first, then pickling in acid
cold, the acid induced oxidation no longer appears. Living in the
tropics does mean living with high atmospheric humidity does require
systematic light oiling of my tools but this weekly ritual has become
a special time for me. A quiet time, at the bench, listening to music
and just handling, inspecting and maintaining my “friends”. Its so
relaxing I look forward to it.
John Bowling