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How to oxidize 925 evenly?

Hi everyone,

Could you please share some info about how to oxidize the outside and
the shank of a deeply domed sterling silver ring? I have Jax Silver
Blackener, and Millox. I find neither give me an even nice finish,
but rather I end up with patchy bits, with some darker and some
lighter areas. I’d really appreciate some suggestions. And how do I
give it a nice finish? I read so mewhere that a bit of oil should be
used after it’s been blackened. True?

Thank you all :slight_smile:
Eva

Could you please share some info about how to oxidize the outside
and the shank of a deeply domed sterling silver ring? 

Using pumice powder and a brass brush will clean and prep the surface
for oxidation. I use Fast Orange, a hand cleaner for mechanics, a
thick gel cleaning product with pumice and degreaser. If I oxidize a
piece and I am not happy witht he results, I reclean the piece with
the Fast Orange and brass brush and I get better results.

Richard Hart G.G.
Denver, Co.

hi eva,

i use Liver of Sulfur in Gel Form to oxidise my jewellery. i add
just a little bit into hot water and then add the pieces, checking
the status, as i have learned, that if i leave it in for too long it
starts to “peel off” on some places and that looks patchy. i always
clean and tumbler the piece before i oxidise, to make sure there is
nothing on the surface that would stop the liver of sulfur to get to
the silver surface.

once i have nice deep grey color i take the piece out and wash in
clean water, to give it a nice shine i either put it in tumble for
about 3 minutes or i just dip it into baking soda powder and rub the
surface with the powder a bit, which gives the piece very nice deep
black shiny finish.

you can then with fine sand paper sand a bit off, just to show the
contrast between silver and oxidisation. hope it helps,

have fun making jewellery,
.t

Could you please share some info about how to oxidize the outside
and the shank of a deeply domed sterling silver ring? 

After polishing, I clean well in an ultrasonic and steam, then place
the item in an appropriate sized beaker and fill to cover with
Griffith SILVER/BLACK (Grobet).

Then I take it out and rinse it off and pour the chemical back into
the bottle.

Then I put the piece into a rotary tumbler with clean soap solution
and steel shot (I don’t have stainless steel but I don’t guess it
matters) and let it spin for a few hours. Perfect!

Dear Eva:

  1. Make sure the area to be oxidized is THOROUGHLY clean.

  2. Good patinas should be built up gradually. As you have already
    seen, fast, heavy patinas do not form a good bond and will peel off.

  3. I heat both the object and the liver of sulfur with a hairdryer
    (!). This speeds up the process a bit without getting it so hot that
    you get a bad bond.

  4. When it looks like it won’t get any darker, I rinse and then go
    over the oxidized part lightly with a glass brush. This in effect
    removes any bits that are not well-bonded, and it leaves an even
    color.

I keep repeating the above process (darkening and glass-brushing)
until the desired darkness of gray/black is achieved. If you want a
totally matt dark surface, skip the glass brush on the final round
and just clean with soap and brush. If you finish with the glass
brush, you get a beautiful sheen. You could polish it lightly if you
want a real shine, but usually we oxidize for contrast, so the sheen
is ‘more appropriate’ (in that regard) than a shine.

The distinctive points of my post are: hairdryer and glass
brush…:-)…

Janet in Jerusalem

Hi Janet in Jerusalem,

Thank you very much for your clear, easy to understand and well
detailed suggestions. I have never heard of glass brush, and don’t
know where to get it, but I’ll investigate here in Melbourne from our
jewellery suppliers. And I shall try your suggestions straight away.

Toda ve toda raba!
Eva