Hello guys i just join ganoskin. I heard great things. I want to create martini or cocktail style setting for a pair of 10mm round garnet. I know this is a very basic project but i cant find a video on it. Theres none on ganoskin it seems. Can someone please point me in the right direction?
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Welcome to ganoksin. It is a great place to be. Are you purchasing the settings or making them and then setting the stones in them. Stuller has a video showing how to set the stones in a purchased setting. I don’t set faceted stones, so that is all the help that I can offer. Hopefully some else can…Rob
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Here is one video (youtube) on setting martini earrings.
The closeups are dark but viewable.
Closing the prongs overhead as seen in the video looks very risky to me, too easy to chip a stone. Perhaps a different kind of setting pliers would be better? There is quite a variety of setting pliers.
I’m wondering if adjacent prongs can be pinched together horizontally, rotating around the stone then changing directions, or if that would only work at the very end. I’ve done that with 4-prong settings at the end, don’t know if that would work with 3 prongs.
Good luck with your project!
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Hi,
these two video’s might be helpful
check out the below jewellery training website.
great value, great courses
https://www.jewellerytrainingsolutions.com.au/
the below short video shows what i think yiu mean by martini setting…
observe…think about how it is put together
…similar to the above first video
julie
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Hi,
so…it appears that martini settings are typically 3 prong…is this correct?
they also seem to have the underbasket/ rail higher up/ closer to the girdle than 4 prong settings…which can have 1 or 2 underbasket/ rails…depending on the design…
julie
(also, the above lady video was 4 prong, and did not have an underbasket/ rail…which i think is better for added structursl stability)
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Three prongs is the defining characteristic of the martini setting. It has to have a girdle wire because otherwise the three narrow prongs could easily be bent, loosening their grip on the stone.
I don’t think that special clamp is really necessary. A good pin vice should grip the post well enough when cutting the seats.
However, I’m chary of using a martini setting for a stone as large as 10mm. Since the stud only touches the lobe at a single point I think it will likely be rather floppy on the ear.
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thank you for your reply. I really appreciate it. You helped me see what i need to do. Thank you
Thanks for your input. These stones were in a standard 4 prong 2 rails basket setting and I thought it was pretty floppy. I looked around and saw that a martini setting (i will do 4 prong) sits closer to the ear and might flop less because of that. I will see how it goes. Thank you so much though. I hope it isnt too floppy.
hi,
also, there are “large” earring backs that help to prevent the flopping…drooping…
try searching:
large earring back to prevent drooping
large lifter earring backs
lobe lifter earring backs…
the design tends to have a sort of figure 8 design…with an additional flat disc or element above the actual earring back…
another design has a larger earring back…in metal or metal with clear plastic or silicone…
a 10mm stone is rather large, and thus also rather deep…floppiness in a stud design might be difficult to avoid…
julie