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How to create a hand fabricated, functional clutch for gold stick pin


#1

A goldsmith with whom I work is creating a custom 18k gold stick pin (a custom design). For the closed clutch end, we need the expertise of Orchid jewelers here: what is the best way to create a durable clutch that grips the end of the stick yet comes on and off easily? We have heard about cork…Experienced guidance much appreciated!


#2

If the clutch is to be seen the nicest kind to make is a jabot pin clutch. Easy to put on and take off, quite secure, depending on the strength of the spring, and the exterior can be made into any ornament you like.
I’ve attached a diagram.

[quote=“hkathleenchildress, post:1, topic:53873, full:true”]
A goldsmith with whom I work is creating a custom 18k gold stick pin (a custom design). For the closed clutch end, we need the expertise of Orchid jewelers here: what is the best way to create a durable clutch that grips the end of the stick yet comes on and off easily? We have heard about cork…Experienced guidance much appreciated!
[/quote]


#3

One false detail in the diagram above. The spring should be at least as wide as the diameter of the pin so that its corners don’t catch when turned to release the spring from the detente.


#4

Thanks! That’s an elegant solution…have you used any others?


#5

Not other hand built ones, no. Most often the clutch is hidden, so a spring friction clutch purchased from a findings house works fine. The non-spring type use a rubber insert these days, i believe.


#6

This may sound crazy: how do you get the spring inside the clutch? Do you use steel for the spring? Thanks so much!


#7

If the mechanism is to be hidden entirely you construct the guide tube and spring separately and then solder the assembly into the ornamental body. But often there is no need to hide the mechanism completely as it will be hidden by the larger ornament and so can remain exposed from the back.
As to material, it should be either spring gold or platinum.

In this jabot pin, marked Van Cleef & Arpels, you can see that the spring catch is not enclosed. In this case you can see that the spring is U shaped with the base of the U engaging the detente in the pin stem.



#8

Thank you for posting that. I had not seen that particular design before this.
Mark


#9

Thanks, this is extremely helpful! A picture paints a thousand words…much appreciate your time spent in this.


#10

Sharing the 18k gold stick pin with spring clutch, hot off the jeweler’s bench! Design H. Kathleen Childress, maker Jasper Kegge