I have been looking for a reliable way to apply Pripps. I don’t use
it very often and the standard spray bottles that I have used get
plugged with crystals that fall out of solution. I have tried keeping
the sprayer in a small crockpot keeping it warm, but that seems like
a waste. I have finally found what I think is a way to store and
apply Pripps. I purchase a very inexpensive artist mouth atomizer,
drilled two holes in the lid of a large prescription pill container,
filled it with Pripps, pushed the delivery tube into one of the holes
and it works great, The spray is very fine and covers the piece well.
I leaned that you need two holes so that air can easily replace the
Pripps that is sprayed out, otherwise it won’t work (basic physics).
I am curious how others have solved this problem.
Otherwise, I seem to be caught up on my Christmas orders and am
looking forward to giving my hands a rest and cleaning the shop. I
wish all of you who observe it very happy holidays and to all a happy
new year. Rob
Had you searched the Orchid archives for Prips flux (which ends with
only one “P”, not two, a little typo of mine (I think I may have
copied it somewhere else, but I think I’m the first one who
misspelled it on Orchid) that seems to have been perpetuated over
time), you’d have found any of several articles I’ve written about
Prips flux use over the last 20 years. I learned to use Prips as an
undergrad in Fred Fenster’s metals class at the University of
Wisconsin, back in '72-4. He taught us, and I’ve been passing it on
ever since, to spray the flux using those mouth atmonizers.
(generations of Orchid readers, apparently, keep trying to improve
on these. The only one’s I’ve seen that actually are any sort of
improvement, if that, amount to other types of atomizers, such as
those used for asthma mouth inhalers, which also deliver a very find
spray. But you have to keep them from clogging…) The ones I’ve
always used are the types sold by ceramics suppliers for spraying on
glazes. Two tubes, one slightly larger and tapered (the mouthpiece)
a smaller longer feed/pickup tube, and an adjustable hinge that you
can fold up, and which allows you to adjust how the ends of the tubes
meet for best operation. They’re virtually indestructable, though the
ones I’ve got that are really old (I think I’ve got one that’s still
from that undergrad class) are a bit too cruddy for me to want to
actually stick one end in my mouth (so I use a rubber tube as a
mouthpiece, as is done with mouth blown blowpipe torches). As to
what type of bottle to use, almost anything works so long as the hole
for the pick up tube is not too tight, allowing air in, as you note.
At one point, I bought a sort of flexible plastic bottle set up as an
alcohol lamp with a little side tube that allowed it to function as a
small blowpipe when you squeezed the bottle. This was supposed to be
useful for wax working. I never found it so, but instead, put my flux
sprayer in the top where there once had been a wick. The bottle has
some marbles inside so it’s weighted down a little even when the flux
gets low. Not elegant, but never found a need to use anything
fancier.
I reuse a pump-style body spray bottle (fine mist) with the little
cap that fits over the spray head. The cap is important because I
fill it with water, invert the spray bottle and snap it into the
cap. Then I store the whole thing upside-down to keep the spray
nozzle submerged. It never gets plugged up that way. I suppose one
could simply invert the spray bottle in a small container of water
and achieve the same thing.
I have not had problems with plugging when the spray bottle is in
use. Thatdoes occur if I forget and leave the bottle overnight
without immersing it in water. If you see crystals in the bottle,
then the solution can be diluted. Now that I think about it, some
time ago I made up a quart of Prip’s tohave on hand. That container
DOES have a bed of crystals that have precipitated out in the
bottom. When I refill my little spray bottle, I use the clear liquid
over the precipitate. It works just fine.
Hope this is of help. Always enjoy reading your posts, Rob. Enjoy
your down time after the flurry of the holidays.
Judy in Kansas, who baked two HUGE gingerbread men cookies. They
came out like rocks and practically had to be sawed up. The good
thing is that the chunks are marvelous ‘dunkers’ for coffee. Who
knewe
Peter. I violated one of my own rules and that is to read the
archives. I did review them for the Prips formula, but missed your
suggestion about using using an atomizer. I could have saved some
time. I will also correct my spelling of Prips.
still using sterling why? For 20 months I have been using Argentium.
It has no firescale/firestain. Is whiter and brighter than any other
precious metal. It is easier and faster to work than sterling. Saves
you money!!!
It is the most beautiful silver alloy. People who turn sterling
black have no effect on Argentium. Also those allergic to sterling
can wear Argentium, it is hypoallergenic. Great for earwires.
Quality sellers of silver now sell Argentium, it is also very slow
to tarnish a very big plus. Also what I really like is the unique
hallmark of a flying unicorn. Proof my wife says that I am an idiot.
Does not stop her “stealing” my jewellery, LOL.
Yes I was one who did not believe the specs on Argentium as a friend
says to me often “You said you were never going to touch that sh*t
now it is all you sell.” LOL
However Argentium does not reticulate as well as sterling.
Do yourself a favour use Argentium your out put and sales will
increase.
I don’t like to spray because I don’t want to inhale the Prips or
have residue all over my soldering area. I use a small tupperware
snack container, holds a 1/3 cup of the solution. I drop my metal in
while getting other things ready and gently heat because it cleans
as well OR warm the metal a bit, dip, warm till frosty, dip again if
I need to, most times I don’t OR I use a small artists brush to apply
as I heat the metal.