How do you set tongues and bullets so that the metal is tight
over the stone? I know it can be done with out the aid of epoxy
but I’m not sure how.
It does take some work. The bezels for the tongues and bullets
and cones that I’ve set were about 3mm deep or less, the first
step is a really tight bezel. No slop, no slack. Holding the
piece securely, especially if it is a simple cap, can be a
problem as well. I thin out the bezel edge (usually 18ky) and
push down with a pusher at about 30-40 degrees relative to the
stone’s surface. Keep going around until the stone is tight. It
is a challenge. Good luck!
Richard D. Hamilton
A goldsmith on Martha’s Vineyard
Fabricated 14k, 18k, 22k, and platinum Jewelry
wax carving, modelmaking, jewelry photography,
and sailing whenever I can…