This the procedure for any size of diamond or gem stone. The
following tools are needed; ring holder, 156C under-cutting burs,
round burs, brass pushing rod, flat ended pumice wheels (180 grit ),
flat graver #39.
Secure the ring solidly into your ring clamp. Eye-ball the size of
the diamond to the hole that is drilled already and obtain a round
bur 80% the size of the stone. The remaining 20% is what the metal
should be securing the diamond with. Use a under-cutting bur and
proceed to make a seat for the girdle for the stone, remember that
the set diamond must be flush with the surrounding metal once the
stone is set. Under cut a seat all around the hole, check now with a
10x loupe making sure that the seat is at the same level. Do not
over drill into the wall, you must only insert the drill till you
cannot see the rotating teeth any more. If you are satisfied that
the procedure is accomplished and to your expectations ‘snap’ in the
stone. Do not snap in, straight in, it isn’t going to work this way.
Place the stone in on an angle and slide it in side to side. You
will notice now that the diamond appears to be lower than the
surrounding metal, don’t worry.
Now proceed to use your brass pusher, as with the steel pusher it
leave deep marks in your gold. Push over the metal into 4 equal
sections round that stone. You should not compress but only push to
tighten. Once that the gold is evenly sitting on the gold, use a
pumice wheel to clean up all of the marks left by the push rod. Do
not use a tapered pumice wheel but only a flat ended wheel. Now for
the final stage of clean-up, you can now use a flat graver of #39
width. As described in one of my previous notes, bright-cut around
the inner wall of the bezel till you achieve a nice uniform cutting
Gerry, the Cyber-Setter
As always Gerry thank you for your input and knowledge for the many
questions that are put forth on these pages, I understand that there
is also a BC 70 in high speed steel instead of vanadium that serves
same purpose as 156c when it comes to gypsy mounts, have you had the
opportunity to try these. I believe that Stuller has the exclusive
on these burs.
so sorry MAXS52 can’t say that I have seen the “BC 70”. I don’t have
the exclusive rights for diamond setting but would just
love the opportunity in giving a series of demo classes anywhere in
the United States on ANY of the topics that are mentioned
here…Gypsy setting, graver shaping, to name a few!
I am giving first of many workshop “demo’s” at my office this
Saturday morning (Jan.10th) to a few of my “setting class” students.
I find that these students should/must see how a setting workshop is
arranged such as…tools, equipment, correct orthopaedic chairs,
security system. To learn setting techniques is one thing, but to
observe a professional setter in his own realm of duty is akin to
“cream on the cake”…right?
Many of my Toronto classmates are avid readers on Orchid, so I must
be careful what I write…:>) Also many of these “Gem Setting 1”
students are continuing on to the next course/semester to “Gem
Setting 2” where they will learn the finer nuances of bead-raising,
graver shaping and “right-sided” bright-cutting, with lots and tuns
of workshop time. This time there will many more Q&A’s to write a
These series of classroom courses and instruction has been given
under the auspices of George Brown College here in Toronto, Canada.
This is now my fourth semester of teaching and the classroom size is
quickly growing, from a meagre 4 students to now of 22 enrolee’s. But
I asked the school of a “cap” of 15 in total per class.
I wish you all on Orchid have a happy New Year, and I hope to see
many of you soon. Thank you Hanuman, you are good!
Gerry, the Cyber-Setter !