I’m driving myself nuts trying to see how the stones in this
Navratna necklace were set. Champleve and burnishing? Cloisonne and
burnishing? Would someone please help the poor struggler?
I’ve asked my Indian coworkers, as Navratna is Indian jewelry that
honors one’s horoscope. They tell me that this specific example is
not a traditional Indian design but an Americanized version.
Traditional Indian Navratna has the stones placed on a flat surface
or in a rigid bracelet:
I'm driving myself nuts trying to see how the stones in this
Navratna necklace were set.
Erm…The stones look as though they are glued in place. Stones do
not seem to be of good quality, and the necklace is plated. Cast and
glued is my bet. Perhaps posts t in the settings and half-drilled
stones.
Lisa (80’ tree toppled over in the winds. 2nd this year! Grrr…)
Topanga, CA USA
it’s easy to see if you enlarge the picture from ross-simons to the
max. Look how very small prongs are cut in the gold in order to hold
the stone in place. These cut prongs are not of the best quality as
you can see because they should be rounded off. Unfinished work to my
opinion however, I can’t do better due to my older eyes.
The stones in the beads look to be poorly bead set from the front in
metal. The Navartna piece is hard to tell from the photo. Probably
just a combination of traditional setting methods. Prongs, bezel,
etc. Have fun and make lots of jewelry.
It appears that the gluing technique might ne the ancient Indian
method called the Kundan method - though I can’t attest to the level
of skill in this instance.
"The entire technique of Kundankari lies in the skillful setting
of gems and stones in gold, which is rarely solid. Holes are cut
for the gems, engraving is carried out and the pieces are
enameled. The core of the ornament is made out of lac, a natural
resin. Later, lac is inserted into the hollow parts and is then
visible from the front, through the holes left for the gems.
Highly refined gold or kundan is used to cover the lac and gems
are then pushed into the kundan.
"To increase the strength of the joints and to give it a smooth
finish, more kundan is applied. Kundankari is such a specialized
work that it is carried by a group of craftsmen, each carrying
out a specific task. The chiterias make the basic design, the
ghaarias are responsible for engraving and making holes,
meenakari or enameling is done by the enameller and the goldsmith
takes care of the Kundan or gold. The jadiyas or stone setters,
set stones such as jade, agate, garnet, emerald, rock crystal,
topaz, amethyst, and spinel into kundan."
Lorraine, In kundan the stones are not held in place with adhesive.
They are held in place by a process whereby very thin finegold sheet
is packed around the stone and then “welded” by burnishing.