I need some HELP! I was given a man’s ring with a 1.25 ct. round
diamond set in a 14 kt White gold gypsy mounting with 3 small
diamonds approx. 5 pts. each pave set down each side. The ring is
rather thick and is a size 6 ?. It needs to be sized to a 10 ? .The
ring has never been sized before and is a family heirloom. I am
afraid that if I up size it to a 10 ? the pressure might cause the
diamond to crack. I thought about removing the diamond to size it,
but am afraid it will harm the mounting The stone is set approx. ?
mm below the top of the ring. Does anybody have any suggestions or
techniques on how best to size this ring.
I wouldn’t think twice about turning the job down if I wasn’t
comfortable with it, especially if it has sentimental value to
someone. Greensboro has many jewelers who can do the job with no
risk. This isn’t the kind of job you learn on without someone well
versed in the processes and the characteristics of the materials
looking over your shoulder. Save yourself some grief and don’t
experiment with someone else’s irreplaceable heirloom. How much
can you make on a sizing? What’s the piece worth to your customer?
Their was a story in JCK about 15 yrs. ago about a jeweler who
lost a 25 grand judgement for destroying someone’s heirloom. An
heirloom isn’t something you can remake.
Herb, This sounds like a job I would probably refuse to do. I
would probably worry more about the gold cracking than the
diamonds. If the ring was cast, you would get irregular cracks
that would be a pain to repair, and something that you didn’t bid
on initially. Best case the ring would come out in an odd oval
shape. Sorry if I’m being negative, but I’ve been sizing rings
for 18 years and I’ve learned the hard way on alot of jobs! Good
Luck! Wendy Newman ggraphix@msn.com
I was given a man's ring with a 1.25 ct. round diamond set in
a 14 kt White gold gypsy mounting with 3 small diamonds approx. 5
pts. each pave set down each side. The ring is rather thick and
is a size 6 ?. It needs to be sized to a 10 ?
This should not be a problem, in 20 years I have never seen a
diamond in such a ring chip from sizing when proper care was taken.
If you cut it at the base, bend it open with your half round pliers
( leaving it a bit oval if its super stiff, don’t pound it down
your mandrel to open it to size). You will need to create
approximatly a 12mm opening, fit you peice in and solder
(dovetailing always creates a stronger joint). The problem you may
encounter is brittle gold. Old white gold often becomes brittle and
cracks at stress points, you may have to solder those also. Check
to be sure the culet doesn’t protrude, thats always a risk if it
hits the steel mandrel it will chip.
My vote (if such had any meaning) would go with those who
recommend passing this job up. I have a bezel set garnet that no
longer fit and had a real difficult time resizing it 1/2 size in
white gold. Other alloys (10ky, 14ky, 18ky) resize much easier.
I’d not work on rose or white gold again, given the choice.
If the stones are genuine diamonds, the heat in the process
described below will not be a problem. If however one or more are
simulants you could run into problems and would need to use
protection such as garnet mud.
i size rings all the time. try putting the ring in water with the
shank up ( i use a juice cap) come in with a really hot flame like
your gonna weld it. it is easier with gold than silver. if the
shank is really thick try two torches good luck scott
