Very good description J Morley: Having worked at the bench
for over 30 years, your coaching is very correct.
I like your description, concise, at least for someone with a
working knowledge of stone setting. I tend to go in and clean
up corners a bit with a 1.0 mm inverted cone bur, and I use a
small ball bur to clear for the points, but then open that up a
bit with a bud bur. I tend not to do much more than bring the
prongs in to meet the stone, then slit the “v” a bit, not down
to the stone, then slowly pinch the “v” in a way as to decrease
the anle inside the “v”. I’ll clear it back out with a
polished flat graver, after sanding outside to get some nice
I work slowly and most of my settings are in Platinum.
I insist my customers who buy any stone larger that 3/4 carat us
a platinum head because, a.) it’s safer to set with, dead soft
so no sudden movements. b.) the prongs don’t wear out for 40
years or so. c.) no dreaded “prong shear” due to nickel content.