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Help hand making Belcher Chain

At the request of my wife I am attempting to hand make an 18kt Belcher chain Euro Clasp bracelet. I am currently attempting to learn the technique with Silver first but struggling hard.

The technique I am trying to use is also the only info I can find on the internet, seen in this video at 1:30

Studying the size of the strip he/she starts with and their fingernails I believe the material to be 0.3mm X 5mm Bezel strip.

I have attempted this using .3mm sheet, pipe with wall thickness of .4 and .9mm. the only a I have had it with the 0.9mm pipe but that is way too thick to replicate with Gold. Essentially while the video produces this shape ( ) I can only make this shape [ ]

Can anyone please help me where I am going wrong? My only option I can think of at this stage is creating a hot forge die press, and I’d prefer not to.

This question is also on Cooksongold forum

In the vid the person cuts, solders, shapes, cuts 1/2 of them again and solders again. Save yourself the time it would take to cut shape and solder all of the links before shaping.
If I were making that chain I’d just buy or make seamless thin walled gold tubing and cut slices from it. Anneal them and then pound away til they have the curve I want. Then cut open half of the links and solder.
Have fun and make lots of jewelry.
Jo Haemer


That’s a great idea!!


That’s a good idea. The trouble I am having is the shaping part, mine don’t come out like little balls they look like little cylinders. The ends just bend inwards at 90deg.

Sounds like you are starting them in the wrong size die. Try staringt them in a larger depression, and if that doesn’t do the trick try starting in a smaller depression.

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