Help hand making Belcher Chain

Jewelry Discussion
1

G’day,
At the request of my wife I am attempting to hand make an 18kt Belcher chain Euro Clasp bracelet. I am currently attempting to learn the technique with Silver first but struggling hard.

The technique I am trying to use is also the only info I can find on the internet, seen in this video at 1:30 [url]Jewellery making belcher chain Erbskette - YouTube

Studying the size of the strip he/she starts with and their fingernails I believe the material to be 0.3mm X 5mm Bezel strip.

I have attempted this using .3mm sheet, pipe with wall thickness of .4 and .9mm. the only a I have had it with the 0.9mm pipe but that is way too thick to replicate with Gold. Essentially while the video produces this shape ( ) I can only make this shape [ ]

Can anyone please help me where I am going wrong? My only option I can think of at this stage is creating a hot forge die press, and I’d prefer not to.

This question is also on Cooksongold forum

2

In the vid the person cuts, solders, shapes, cuts 1/2 of them again and solders again. Save yourself the time it would take to cut shape and solder all of the links before shaping.
If I were making that chain I’d just buy or make seamless thin walled gold tubing and cut slices from it. Anneal them and then pound away til they have the curve I want. Then cut open half of the links and solder.
Have fun and make lots of jewelry.
Jo Haemer
www.timothywgreen.com

3

Joe,

That’s a great idea!!

Eileen

4

That’s a good idea. The trouble I am having is the shaping part, mine don’t come out like little balls they look like little cylinders. The ends just bend inwards at 90deg.

5

Sounds like you are starting them in the wrong size die. Try staringt them in a larger depression, and if that doesn’t do the trick try starting in a smaller depression.

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