I think this goes back to the discussion of jewelry as an art
form…Architect Frank Gehry is the latest "Jewelry " designer for
Tiffany & Co.
This has to be one of the smartest, cleanest and most original line
that Tiffany has introduced in years! Brilliant!
Thanks,
Robyn Hawk
Is there any reciprocity in this deal? Does a jeweler get to design
a building in exchange?
Not to take anythig away from Frank… Given the same resouces alot
of us jewellers (Aussie spelling) on this forum would be capable of
things just as great.
Cheers
Christos
When Mr. Gehry’s (whose architecture I admire immensely) started
working for Tiffany an article was written in the LA Times (March
2007) as the line was being presented.
In it, he said:
"At $750,000, one of the most expensive pieces is a striking white
gold mesh collar scattered with diamonds and pearls, which harkens
back to Gehry’s proposal for One Times Square, where he imagined
swathing the ball-dropping tower in metal mesh. "They brought me a
bunch of silver mesh one day and a cup of rough-cut diamonds and I
just went ‘plop,’ " he said, making a spilling motion with his hands.
“I asked if we could throw some pearls in and they did.”
(Who knew all one needed to do was “plop” to be a succesful jewelry
designer?)
or:
"Gehry sat down to talk about the collection. “I am always looking
for things to do that give me instant gratification because buildings
take so long,” he said.
Gehry worked with nine designers, who brought him unusual materials
such as black gold, cocholong stone, pernambuco wood and raw cut
diamonds. When he first saw his ideas realized in pieces such as the
$600 sterling silver Orchid pendant, hung on a black cord, he thought
it looked like junk. “But when someone put it on, it came to life"
like how architecture comes to life when a building is used,” he
said"
Obviously they are doing something very right because Gehry’s
crumbled sterling cuff bracelet is only $30,000.
Is there any reciprocity in this deal? Does a jeweler get to design a building in exchange?
Although his qualifications may be high in respect to design
capabilties it really would be no different to letting an interior
designer in to my workshop and saying to them “using materials you
see around design something up and i will make it.” He seems very
commercially driven too.
I’ve seen much more interesting art from people on this list.
Frankly - I have to disagree with some posts - to be blunt, I think
it is the ugliest least imaginative jewelry I have ever seen.
Archie
When he first saw his ideas realized in pieces such as the $600 sterling silver Orchid pendant, hung on a black cord, he thought it looked like junk.
I gotta say, I haven’t seen them ON someone, but to me also, most of
the pieces look like junk. They look like homogenized commercial
“art” jewelry. I admire his architecture enormously, and I even
believe that someone with a good enough eye can “plop”. But he’s not
really creating this jewelry the way he creates his buildings-- he’s
not investing himself in it, and it shows.
I think this thread should be re-titled “What’s in a name?”
Noel
I have a lot of customers who are architects. They fall into two
categories. The first category will come in, look at my work, tell me
how great it is and buy something out of the case, no questions
asked. The second category comes in and tells me that they have a
design I have to make up for them. Invariably, it is a design that
resembles something akin to putting a building on your finger. They
will always be designs that are either 1) completely unworkable,
2) completely unwearable, 3) uglier than sin or 4) a combination of
all of these. For some reason many architects are led to believe
that they can design anything and that they can design it better than
the people who’s job it is to design it. Unfortunately they are often
led to believe this by design contests that run regularly
specifically for architects to design jewelry or other stuff that
isn’t in their field. I have a standing rule that when an architect
comes in and asks for custom work that I start my pricing 50% higher
than normal. If it doesn’t scare them away, at least it makes it
worth my while to try to assemble whatever monstrosity they have come
up with. And incidentally, I tell them I am charging them more than
usual and why I’m doing it (unfortunately it doesn’t usually
discourage them). I haven’t seen the gentleman’s work being discussed
on this thread, but I can’t imagine it’s much different than what
I’ve been faced with in the past. But then I’ve never thought any of
Tiffany’s designers are really that interesting.
Daniel R. Spirer, G.G.
Daniel R. Spirer Jewelers, LLC
1780 Massachusetts Ave.
Cambridge, MA 02140
Regarding Frank Gehry designing jewelry for Tiffany… (see:
http://tinyurl.com/3ywjdk )
Well, I see ‘Tiffany for the mass market’ written all over this.
This would be pretty disappointing stuff from a man of such artistic
capabilities but i have the funny feeling that there was pressure to
conform to designs that would appeal to the lowest common
denominator to make sales. Frank Gehry, if given cart blanche, would
have at least come up with more interesting texture and materials
details. This is so Jewelry 101. It reminds me of Paloma Picasso’s
efforts and/or name stamp. It is ‘clean’ but not very intriguing.
Alas, some of it will sell as the name ‘Tiffany’ conjures status and
reputation if not always based upon the finest concepts and design.
Hearing Sydney Pollack speaking about Frank Gehry’s architecture in
Tiffany’s video clip was the best part of my Tiffany/Gehry
experience. As vicious as i may seem in this critique, I still admire
both Tiffany and Gehry for many other reasons. I just feel like some
of you unknown artists deserve more recognition for your creations
than this boring effort. May receive your moment in the sun.
Namaste
Allen
Indigo Designs
Allen Howells
Daniel,
I couldn’t agree more. I have had architects come in with FULL SCALE
A1 size drawings of jewellery. Side elevation, plan, the whole
catastrophe. I don’t do work for them anymore (the plan types) I had
to make a ring 6 times over once (I was much younger). The guy
measured the final product with a micrometer. Six months later he
wants me to redo the job because he damaged the ring. I said no ways
and sent him to my opposition. Afterwards I had his plan framed and I
hung it in my workshop.
Used to be fascinating to my other clients.
Cheers, Hans Meevis
http://www.meevis.com
Robyn,
Thank you very much for the link. I enjoyed the video, and also
spent time looking at the jewelry. I like what I saw, and recognize
that this gent has a wonderful sense of creativity.
You will get no sour grapes from me.
Terrie
I’m an admirer of Frank Gehry’s architecture. He should stay with his
’real’ job and stop that ‘ego’ stuff, but maybe he needs the money.