put the mallet down!
get yourself a nice flame bur- perhaps 4.75mm but depending on the
stones shape 4.50 mm may be too small- you’ll learn with time- how
to choose the correct size smaller than the stone to carve the metal
out of the area…but first there are more important parts of the
process: start the setting by drilling a hole with a twist drill bit-
perhaps size 60 to start the hole…
then modify a 45 degree hart bur by grinding the tip off, giving you
a nice cutting tool to make an even seat to eventually snap the stone
into…it is very important that you keep everything level in the
ring/metal you are flush/gypsy setting. A pair of dividers and
scribe are essential to the flush /gypsy process.
another tip is to purchase a box of masonry/cut nails. they are
stainless steel generally and won’t contaminate your metal or leave
traces of softer metals on your piece like copper and brass
sometimes do…then modify the heads into pushers and for burnishing,
setting, matting, stamping- i have at least 50 modified nails that
work much more effectively for a myriad of tasks…particularly
burnishing and setting -as you can polish some, round the edges of
most so they don’t slip off the piece damaging the stone or pearl,
etc, modify some to exact shapes for different stones shapes, and
bezel shapes and metal gauges, as they are smaller than the standard
bezel rocker, and longer than bezel pushers little square heads, and
you can use jett set or some other material if you like to customize
the handle/grip for your needs compared to the round wood most are
mounted onto, groove some for prong work, and they are probably three
hundred times more effective than pushers on the market…the
modifications are as endless as the designs you can dream up…cut
nails are an essential in my studio -at about a lb. for 3.50 or less
you can make hundreds of tools…
Next I have noticed a lot of students get a design idea and cast or
construct a ring or setting and they have forget to measure the
depth of the 6mm stone so then the culet sticks out way too far, or
in to the wearers finger…unless the stones you select are all
machine cut, their depths will be different…so make certain you have
enough metal to carve out before you begin.
measuring is a great part of the process, as is level cutting.A
piece of tape on the shaft of your bur(s) keeps all the elements at
the same depth as the scribed position you eventually want your stone
to sit at in relation to the top of the ring or piece of metal
without having to constantly measure everything…( of course you have
to measure where the tape goes!).I thoroughly recommend the Jewelers
Bench Reference ( a small black book you should add to your library
in any case) and Charles Lewton-Brain’s “Cheap thrills in the tool
shop” and he has a new one out though the title escapes me that i
recommend highly… back to the subject:
once you have a nice level seat scribed where you want the stone to
sit, use a scraper, sharp graver, or the flame bur, mentioned above
and go around the line to create the seat…nice stratight sided, and
as precise as is possible…(use magnification for this, if nothing
else…you want to create a cut that will allow you to slip the stone
into place and snap it down so it lies neatly at the exact depth you
originally intended in your design plans) continue -with very little
force, and sharpen as often as necessary- to trace and cut around
that circumference until there is enough metal removed to accomodate
the stone (providing the stones girdle is relatively even) when
viewed from directly above the ring so it gives you the shape you
want the surround to be.Then at an angle, slide the stone into
place.and snap it down.
Clean around the edge with something like 3M’s abrasive discs (A
fantastic product- and you’ll become addicted readily, and want to
polish everything in sight!), then burnish with your modified cut
nail or agate, or other burnisher untill it is nice and tight and
does not rattle at all…if you need a short cut to end a slight
rattle bend a piece of…say 26 +/- gauge wire to the stone’s shape
and solder it to the underside( with plumb easy solder and a good
heat proof ing on the stone) to act as a bearing and end the
problematic over-removal of metal on the piece…
Gypsy/flush setting is one of my absolute favorite setting methods,
and one of the most hard to master, but it comes with time, and each
attempt will improve. stone shape is important, and of course, it’s
easier to begin with a cabbed stone than a facetted one, and the
harder the better!..if you do slip with a burnisher or pusher, or
modified cut nail, a slurry of tin oxide, or linde A should remove
the scratch from the common stones used in jewelery making…it
sparkle again…if you need or want any more info and want to contact
me off orchid to clarify something feel free…
@rebecca_rourke1 … hope this helped somehow!!!
R.E.Rourke