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Gypsy setting in opal


#1

Skadi,

After re-reading your post (and after I responded) I actually didn’t
come close to even giving you useful advise. (sorry…it was very
late when I posted) The advise on setting was obviously for
bezeling. In my humble opinion, you cannot gypsy set opal…period.
It requires far to much pressure when closing down the lip. The
gypsy/flush setting method is fine for diamond, ruby, or sapphire.
The opening is made just slightly smaller the stone. A 45 or 90
degree bur is used to create a seat just under the lip. The stone in
then pressed in till you hear it click into place. It my way of
thinking the reason your having difficulty is because you cannot do
this procedure with opal. My suggestion would be to create a full
bezel, or a 1/2 bezel for this stone. Using a 1/2 bezel is very
impressive to the customer as it reveals much more of the stone. Let
us all hear how it goes!

Fully awake now
Walt Teats
American Goldworks


#2

I completely agree with Walt@AurumGroup, that click of getting the
stone in will be of the Opal breaking. Stay clear of any manoeuvres
like “clicking in a stone” or is it a “crack”? Bezel setting is much
more safer and reliable and so much less stressful on the
setter…moi!..:>)

Maybe 2 end bezels is courting disaster you might be forcing two ends
over with gold …woops! Another method is to use a small round #007
bur and remove ANY pieces of metal left over from the casting process
and get every piece of that metal away from where the Opal will be
resting. It is known that sometimes when the bezel walls are pushed
over, and a little minute ball of metal is remaining, you will give
stress to the Opal and a “crack” sound will also occur…“This is
(not) a Beautiful Noise!” …(Neil Diamond !) and push over the metal
with a brass metal pusher, if you use a steel pusher you might slip,
and again …woooops!..gerry!


#3

Perhaps you should have a small bezel under set and make the to so
the stone ‘‘appears’’ to be gypsy set. A reverse cut on the edge of
the stone would allow for a gold under bezel. I would use at least
18k. Less chance of the stone being broken during the set but truth
is I wouldn’t give the stone much chance of longevity unless the
person keeps their arm on a pillow [ ha ha ].

Ringman


#4

I made a wax model for a gypsy setting and the opal was put in from
underneath and secured with a collar that fit up inside behind the
opal and was secured by raising beads. The opal was recessed enough
that it could not be hit or scratched. The customers wife had died
and he wanted to wear the opal. Size 12 finger, big guy. Seems like I
remember it being close to an ounce of gold.

Came back a year later for engagement ring, custom built white and
yellow gold with 1.22ct diamond.

Richard in Denver


#5

I also have to agree with anyone that doesn’t try to make stones
"click" into the settings.

I stumbled upon a series of pics that I took of a gypsy setting
session with an opal if you are interested. You can see under the
"eratta" button at http://www.goldwerx.com .

Comments are welcome.
Bruce