This may make more sense?
Economy Level: Setting a few stones a week. Start with a Crocker
holding fixture and a small protractor. An aluminum oxide
double-sided whetstone and a hard Arkansas stone. Try to get the
stones in the same length and thickness. Longer is better. 8 is
ideal but 6 is average. If one stone is thinner than the other make
a thin wooden or Plexiglas shim to fit underit, and bring it to the
same level as the thicker stone.
Use carbon steel or HSS steel graver blanks. Put a graver into the
holder. Make sure that you always insert the graver in such a way as
to leave the exact same amount protruding each time. I suggest
marking all the gravers with a diamond scribe. We’ll use 1 for an
example of where to mark. A lot will depend on your stones. You may
find that you have to use a raised platform to rest and slide your
Crocker on - to achieve the geometry you need. Using the protractor
find the angles you will need to set the Crocker for by placing the
loaded holder in position on the whetstones. Mark each angle on the
rotating collars with a center punch or nick them with a file. You
can use nail polish or bright colored paint in these depressions to
make the marks easy to see. This will enable you to find and repeat
your angles with some degree of accuracy.
Utility: Setting a few stones a day, maybe beginning to try
ornamental engraving. Start with a Crocker holding fixture and a
small protractor. Follow the directions above, so that you can find
and repeat your angles. Find matching diamond hones of 600 and 1,200
grit. You may want to at least consider a 260 grit hone. Makes short
work of preforming your blank. I have set that measure about 2 x 8.
Find a ceramic or Ruby stone for final polishing if you intend to
bright cut. (You will probably have to charge the ceramic stone with
50,000 grit diamond powder)
If you just need to push up beads the 1,200 grit will be fine. With
this setup you can start to purchase some of the newer alloys and
carbides. A good grade of carbide will make a graver that can last
for years without resharpening if you don’t hit a stone with it. I
precut all of my settings, testing the fit as I go, before the
diamonds are finally set. Takes a bit longer, but I like crisp
results, not mashed and smeared metal. My personal all around
favorite for both setting and ornamental engraving is Lindsays
Carbalt. GRS has a carbide, and their own formula Glensteel. Ngraver
has a carbide. There are also M2 and M42 blanks. All of the 3/32
square tool blanks were originally small lathe tool blanks so this
time we are stealing from machine shop tools instead of the
dentists.
Production and Accuracy: Full time setters and full time ornamental
engravers. Here’s where it can start getting expensive As I mentioned
in the preceding post you can make your own motorized hone from
various salvaged (read free) parts, and you can use a Crocker or
other homemade holding device to keep the price down. You can find 6
laps online at various lapidary and faceting dealers for $40 to $50
each. Ceramic laps are another story. Just a few months ago you could
purchase them for around $90. Now all of a sudden they are in the
$200+ price range. Dunno why, the only thing that I can think of that
uses a similar ceramic is the space shuttle? Anybody got a clue as to
why they’d more than double in a few months?
A brand new full bore GRS Power Hone with all 4 laps (260, 600,
1,200, and ceramic), diamond spray and the newest holding fixture
will cost you around $900. Add another fixture and you’re well over
$1,000. You will rarely find used ones on Ebay. The advantages are
convenience it arrives ready to go to work and durability.
I now have 6 GRS power hones in our studios. 3 of them are over 20
years old. I’ve never been extremely gentle with them, and students
can usually destroy almost anything but they still run fine. I just
this year replaced 2 sets of laps after 20 years hard use. The
oldest one still runs well after 20+ years, but makes a funny noise,
so I ordered a replacement motor last week. Another winter
maintenance job never ends.
Anyway, these are some of your choices. Any of them can be altered
or combined in whatever way suits you and your budget. As always,
buy the best quality you can afford - taking into account the job(s)
you have to do.
Brian P. Marshall
Stockton Jewelry Arts School
Stockton, CA USA
209-477-0550
instructor@jewelryartschool.com
jewelryartschool@aol.com