Why do certain types of Yellow Gold allow you to achieve a satin
finish better than others? For example, I polished a particular 14K
yellow pair of diamond earrings and we did a satin finish on them
and they came out wonderful, then we applied the satin finish to a
flat 14K yellow round disc and it just didn’t come out even? We tried
to sand blast the round disc and then the piece didn’t even look like
gold any longer. What is the best way to apply satin finish to just
about any piece of jewelry?
part of it is buying the same coloured gold stock, or making your
own sheet and punching discs yourself. If the discs you bought from x
were 14 kt yellow and then you bought another company’s findings and
set diamonds in them, it is more likely that different alloys were
used in their manufacture. I find it both satisfying and reliable to
roll my own coloured golds…then the same results are always
achieved. sand blasting seems a bit overkill however, why not try
something like 3m’s satin finish buffs on your flexshaft, or the same
grit of sanding/abrasive film too. Between using the same implement
of achieving your finish and the same gold stock you should get
reliable results. hope this isn’t construed as insultingly simple or
condescending in any way…
Is it true that if there are raised parts rather than a completely
flat surface that applying the satin finish is more difficult because
the buff can’t get into all the spaces?
I use alot of satin and brushed finishes in my work. I have also
gone as far as using dry sharkskin (the earliest form of sand paper)
on my work. I find that every piece is different. try small satin
buffs in the nooks and crevises of the work befor applying the satin
buff on the polishing lathe. also a good way to even out the finish
is to go over it with a fiberglass pen. this is a tool the emamalist
use, it looks like a magic marker, the fiberglass strands are feed
through the end like a mechanics pencil. there are different size
fibers to give a different brush look. these do not cost much, the
fibers are replaceable. any enamels supply co. will sell this tool.
wear safty glasses because the fibers are alot like cactus needles.
this is also something that works well on satin finished watch
cases.
best of luck.
wayne werner
keep turning the piece and try a small dremel( 3M makes theirs) or 3M
satin finish buff, the dremel brand comes two to a pkg., and is in 2
grits (with the flexshaft you have more control than a buffing
machine) they are quite flexible and the point is not to apply
pressure but the speed of the flexshaft and the texture of the
mounted buff…there is a maroon buff and a blue one. start with the
blue one and use the maroon for getting into those peaks and
valleys( i’m presuming you are talking about something akin to
reticulated stock).if you are referring to the inside of a bezel,
it’s a moot point, no one will see it.if it’s the inside of a sphere
you are making out of two halves soldered together apply the finish
to the metal first then solder, then finish the outside.If it’s a
pre-fab bead that is pierced or filigree of some kind you’ll never
get a satin finish on the inside without desoldering it then
resoldering it once the finish is applied.otherwise i have no idea
what you want to know exactly.