The problem is the stones I am using are flat cut so not domed. So
when I push the bezel in over the stone it just swallows it up.
The bezel should be trimmed so just a tiny amount (1mm or even less)
reaches onto the top part of the stone. Or, if the sides of the
stone slope in, it doesn’t have to fold over the top at all.
Another alternative for setting stones that are flat on top and not
sloped in on the sides (besides recutting to slope the sides in) is
to make the bezel out of thick material (I use 1.25mm) that is
higher than the stone by a couple of mm. Saw partway down in pairs
of parallel cuts a mm or so apart, creating a tiny prong that gets
pushed over the stone. I like Andy Cooperman’s name for this-- he
calls it “pickets”.
If my description is unclear, I explain the technique in more detail
in my step-by-step article in the current issue of Art Jewelry.