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"Gerry's Diamond Setting Essays"


#1

Tuesday, 21 May 2019
Let’s have some picture taking fun!..:>)

  • I like to make this Diamond Setting group of essays an exciting and fun
    affair! So why not review some of the previous eassays & photographs and at
    this time, “add a few more”!*

I’m using my digital-microscope that is showing these photographs from 60
=> 100+ power magnification.

Many of these ‘shots’ show that not every setting project is clean and
precise
, the human-hand does make some little slips and minor errors. This
is not what we’re concerned about, its just that we now have the jewellery
technology in seeing them, all up close!

Would you believe that this is a very common cleaning wheel, how about a
#180 grit Pumice wheel?

https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MDekwvk77VU/XOHp4PPEvZI/AAAAAAAAWng/zzWYZDS5784YAmMinC6EoL8WwYzFSj_owCLcBGAs/s1600/%233.jpg

Are you ready for this little saw blade? If you cut waxes, you will for
sure use this. This is a saw blade just for cutting into wax patterns,
https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oEePrgo4x1c/XOHp5NbespI/AAAAAAAAWno/n5DqG-BQT4M5NEW58uJ8lANzOVDU0aUZwCLcBGAs/s1600/%235.jpg

*Just how large are these CZ stones? *Would you believe these are only
1.5 mm’s in diameter!!!
https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ulmbpXeqo9Y/XOHp5p7Dy0I/AAAAAAAAWns/u9EY19wnIPo_I6KRtZ4BWsmFfCPfpU5ZACLcBGAs/s1600/%236.jpg

*Do you cut rubber molds, then this little curved item is an “Exact-o”
blade? *Don’t go on any airplane with this very sharp tool. This will cut
your skin, I can attest to that fact!..;>(
https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UJhHD7aJU2c/XOHp55x9myI/AAAAAAAAWnw/cr2E2zPsOTwSJ-Mdu-YyKrhfFzohaIB6gCLcBGAs/s1600/%237.jpg

This little item is for wax shaping, you can see some residue on the
bottom left corner of this bur.

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PMyXn-P8760/XOHp509owyI/AAAAAAAAWn0/xF-RWNg5D9wQPniuqk5qrllPlRgkjB_swCLcBGAs/s1600/%238.jpg

This is a Corundum spindle that’s used for anything that you need, you
name it and it works!

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Jpvd7Wydc6o/XOHp6dcfh2I/AAAAAAAAWn4/mXMSuGehTvYApdW1JuwceoMuEjh8q2RiQCLcBGAs/s1600/%239.jpg

I was drilling holes with my twist drill and this is what came off that
drill.
I ‘saved’ it and took a photo of the metal shaving.
https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xZcRE5Te0eQ/XOHp1oPU7fI/AAAAAAAAWnM/_RvRCATNBZskyXMRke_f1ChpWooNAMI3ACLcBGAs/s1600/%2312.jpg

This is the up close of a wax form with some stones ready for casting!

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BHmubPBvC1o/XOHp23-TcrI/AAAAAAAAWnY/yPw5vz_UqUQqX1TTn0haZQmmimEq0JebgCLcBGAs/s1600/%2315.jpg

“Shingles on a house”? No way, just a #00 grit file
https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SeufKQg4tZg/XOG6C908jDI/AAAAAAAAWm0/a9WxjByQtIs33R7KE8XRLP5cTXn72DUxACEwYBhgL/s1600/wax%2Bfile-curved%2Bblade.jpg

Here is the same wax-file & the cleaning wire brush in action.
https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3MuJ-aRSvcE/XOG6DYTTB6I/AAAAAAAAWmw/49jGm2FKd00aVGGfRtuKXvCw6PzgQIxyQCEwYBhgL/s1600/wire%2Bcleaning.jpg

This is a #1 grit file!
https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6l_JetY0YVc/XOG6ANpPyKI/AAAAAAAAWl0/s_vdff31KroDW-AvN6ujXPDzizI_K8GygCLcBGAs/s1600/2%2Bfile.jpg

File with a #2 grit.
https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--ZtX70k5eko/XOG6Aeq4f7I/AAAAAAAAWl4/X3X2m0KfQWUYraD5vLhJnXfYhQK_azxiQCLcBGAs/s1600/2%2Bgrit%2BTriangular%2Bfile.jpg

*Is this a sharp #2 Onglette graver? *Up close it looks (yuk) rough, but it
sure cuts nicely!
https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mrBflbSmm2k/XOG6Af-0v4I/AAAAAAAAWl8/N2knTRCawGsuFCypXfVbcVV0eed5Ms2MACLcBGAs/s1600/bright%2Bgraver.jpg

  • Pink coloured Pumice Wheel of #1,000 grit!*

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2n1a-MpflcI/XOG6BHM55HI/AAAAAAAAWmE/fhkH_KXJPJUPt5vsgv7AaydYbKwGPmm_ACLcBGAs/s1600/pink%2B1%2C000%2Bgrit.jpg

Now you can see the ‘tips of the wires’ of the previous photo.
https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CA4ahzO4lOA/XOFs-0pT7LI/AAAAAAAAWlc/BG2QjB4_tZkx6qT-kDa35E1ToxmFSf6cACEwYBhgL/s1600/%2353.jpg

This is a well-used “Medium grade, Emery, Snap-On-Wheel” with the frayed
well used edges and loads of residue embedded into the Corundum granules.

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qbQ9ddnhmPA/XOFtAMDx1HI/AAAAAAAAWlY/UXVq4QJFQFkKH4P_UdfXytoz7xsaBJpWACEwYBhgL/s1600/%2355.jpg

This is a magnification of a #180 grit Pumice wheel at 125x power
magnification.

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--iMR5iRbf3A/XOG5_GP1wmI/AAAAAAAAWlk/jjwB0dIkPZAQlfxjIRl9IxYmGw4IAWEvACLcBGAs/s1600/%23180%2Bgrit%2Bpumice%2Bwheel.jpg

*On many of these Cubic Zirconia stones show the name of the company

“Swarovski”.*
https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-U7Vv3Zcj0eQ/XOFs8_JwVDI/AAAAAAAAWlM/P0LoXrhNRxc1Bf_qlst4QIt61V-nJWQPgCEwYBhgL/s1600/%2348.jpg

*This is a simple photo just showing the Bright-Cutting inside the Bezel
frame. *All of my Bezel settings have been Bright-Cut.
https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ho08uLwV35w/XOFsNug1UeI/AAAAAAAAWh0/0v1XNBdyrO4RkPXGbdDYK_snRvwtNn9DwCEwYBhgL/s1600/%234.jpg

From a distance, this “Star-Setting” looks nice and clean…but not under
a 80 power photo…:>(

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-d6pz_DgK-xc/XOFsSWEixvI/AAAAAAAAWh4/f8ESQpxGCRgaiooCrE9ZXM-uF4v47y6dgCEwYBhgL/s1600/%235.jpg

*Every Gypsy setting MUST be Bright-Cut. *I just never, never ‘burnish’
the metal to set a bezel stone.
https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BZY_ZJFxUo4/XOFsVm42u2I/AAAAAAAAWhw/OgaF4b6UWw0FxAtz1BBHQMfNkDtRFVxGQCEwYBhgL/s1600/%236.jpg

Here is my favourite setting pattern. The “Fishtail” as it’s been used &
seen in my demo-ring
.

https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CBBtCvvKa9A/XOFsWBJb5QI/AAAAAAAAWh4/dATQ5kIeG3gDu8P-j_n8Il3aX_LHXq-5gCEwYBhgL/s1600/%238.jpg

This started out as a flat (boring) triangular plate. This still shows a
few miss-guided graver cuts!

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EdNZdYyj6s4/XOFsGeJaRKI/AAAAAAAAWho/HoFPM5ZGwNcfJYoUwDWBfaqZggN806aTgCEwYBhgL/s1600/%2313.jpg

Here is the four-sided, square cut. When this is highly polished…WOW!
https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-I86daU0kDIc/XOFsG1ea_uI/AAAAAAAAWh0/5sLtmzgnbGsvh7AGHIQzvBUMBIjod9aXwCEwYBhgL/s1600/%2317.jpg

“Florentine” cutting showing a ‘finished’ border pattern.
https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Th_VcMdZmAw/XOFsHC89WPI/AAAAAAAAWh8/Y_rKXqBStrIzZ-81-PtyCNv4aisONPCjwCEwYBhgL/s1600/%2318.jpg

Another view on a Channel-set ring, prior to setting of the stones.
https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-l5ke7kcMiyA/XOFsHaLeRGI/AAAAAAAAWh0/vHf2ee69erY85Y-lkCzFtCjDdc3k2M1ggCEwYBhgL/s1600/%2319.jpg

Many engravers use the name of a “Liner” which it is, I prefer the name of
a “Florentine” graver.

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k3xmsmq-X10/XOFsHr0BTvI/AAAAAAAAWhs/SSzVvtmgr4wZdiy98gmUHRQsLiFGFnatwCEwYBhgL/s1600/%2320.jpg

*Same tool/graver but used in a different application..just making

decorative ‘lines’.*
https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DtEt8yg1Rz8/XOFsH5Dp8NI/AAAAAAAAWh8/3mMUGE-IrfM58Dn6TL5zf1ctcVkKXmj1QCEwYBhgL/s1600/%2322.jpg

As I have written many times before, I always Bright-Cut on the inside
of the bezel walls
.
https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G6tH-HjzTfk/XOFsIXEVTCI/AAAAAAAAWh0/1gk2skhlNSwLWoTPCHJHYrd7SNJBvCHcwCEwYBhgL/s1600/%2324.jpg

Two photographs of a simple pin-lever watch with a view of its many
gears!

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lvyIdIZ8agE/XOFsKo3cXJI/AAAAAAAAWhs/M7XZ3rCzR1MjTswzscZMAmYfQ1zSOsTfwCEwYBhgL/s1600/%2328.jpg

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S9avHij8iwM/XOQZWhSTS7I/AAAAAAAAWoY/XfLkCtuvKNQph_SECP6VnWvRANo9x6KcgCLcBGAs/s1600/%2336.jpg

Just another view of the soft bristles!
https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-misXndlXxzY/XOFsNFvfp_I/AAAAAAAAWho/2OgIiIAI3m0Z7qsX7Mo5pzu12Tkg2O1aACEwYBhgL/s1600/%2338.jpg

*Would you believe that this is the underside of a Flat #40 graver? *It
looks like a disgusting piece of steel, but the results are of a very shiny
cutting surface.
https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_TMpfoEMPHg/XOFsJrQD2rI/AAAAAAAAWh4/KF8OL-CxbRgweHN7MIyquOZW4Q-F4ogAwCEwYBhgL/s1600/%2326.jpg

Another side view of a Bezel setting, you can see the Bright-Cutting. Also
you can see the crimping of the metal, as its bending over the stone.
Normally this wouldn’t be seen, but with this microscope, everything is
being now observed with the greatest detail.

https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PEMeFaRRRHE/XOFsI_hmuEI/AAAAAAAAWiA/1fo_pDK6n800ad8d9XMaImGBLQlCSq_JwCEwYBhgL/s1600/%2325.jpg

This is one ugly, overly used and abused "H.S.S.’ (High Speed Steel)
bur.
You
can see that many of the teeth are just not being able to cut into the
metal anymore…aka scrap!
https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lB7aTLWQGP8/XOFsM6ODSXI/AAAAAAAAWhs/sCI5nrEIPowIJQONY7c5nwV7C3K5SLREQCEwYBhgL/s1600/%2337.jpg

This is my (nearly) favourite metal pusher that is showing the little
grooves
that will prevent any slipping while pushing over any metal.
https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Oz9riC8Ywwk/XOFsN9F3mhI/AAAAAAAAWhs/PVguQ2Ua3DkhJcbeL12xwBq2tw-rViD9gCEwYBhgL/s1600/%2340.jpg

This is a very good picture of a great ‘cup bur’ bur. The generic name is
a “77B” it’s used to round off the tips of all claws after being set.
https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uLceuaxPoTU/XOFsO3RynZI/AAAAAAAAWho/PmnRSVPAFHcCDEsQTKK1OaUN8U_wzhn_wCEwYBhgL/s1600/%2343.jpg

Here is the packet of some of the well used sizes!
https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EW7XEy3_CCE/XOFsOUwiRzI/AAAAAAAAWh4/Jc4aNL8lDU0pz0DixJZwYOWJX3rdqGBYgCEwYBhgL/s1600/%2342.jpg

*Have you ever thought of what this bur looks really up close?*You can now
see the curved teeth that will grind away the metal on the tip of each claw.
https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BfFpwiC406g/XOFsP5yaNeI/AAAAAAAAWh4/9yF3PAGpsJQfFv8Ypad4C0umEZCDKvw-gCEwYBhgL/s1600/%2345.jpg

*What are these burs and why were they so important many decades ago? I
used these to prepare a seat for setting “half-pearls”. These are not so
common anymore, but they still sit on my bench! *
https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2O0ExjQT0XE/XOFsRy10ttI/AAAAAAAAWho/0yabQkPyLPw6pP8cUl1uQFIb67FooN_tgCEwYBhgL/s1600/%2349.jpg

*A nicely prepared HSS bur with its sharp cutting teeth. *

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nX0NsQO7pqA/XOFsVIMHR1I/AAAAAAAAWhw/cg8zmQjLWxUMeUccIVHuazblaJaXGP1AgCEwYBhgL/s1600/%2356.jpg

I hope that you enjoyed a little trip into the detailed world of Diamond
Setting and the many tools.