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Gerry Lewy stonesetting levels


#1

The following setting levels are my own interpretation in
diamond/stone setting. You might all agree or disagree, as we live
in a free world these are my own thoughts for my students…these are
based on only score out of “10”…so here goes…:slight_smile:

  1. Flat-topped engagement ring = 8
  2. Round claw engagement ring = 6
  3. Tube settings = 5
  4. Gypsy/Flush setting = 5
  5. Oval “Faceted” bezels = 6
  6. Straight baguettes = 7
  7. Tapered baguettes = 8
  8. Princess centers = 20+
  9. Channel setting = 6
  10. End, or tension bezel = 6
  11. Shared claws = 5
  12. Pave’ setting = 25+
  13. Gypsy setting using a Princess stone = 15+
  14. Re-sharpening H.S.S. burs = 4
  15. How to make a synthetic stone smaller = 4
  16. Full process of Graver polishing = 7
  17. “Right-sided, Bright-cutting” Onglette #2 = 6
  18. Using a #156C teeth for uniform “production” depth in cutting
    seats = 4
  19. “Star” pattern engraving = 20+

I have a full list of 27 setting topics, but these are only a random
selection. And who said “diamond setting is only pushing over a few
simple claws”?..:slight_smile:

Gerry Lewy
905 - 886 - 5961


#2

I am assuming the higher numbers are levels of difficulty. In true
setting without the use of CAD you have a good representation. But
just a couple of comments. Princess cut centers are basic easy
setting. I have heard of others saying that this is difficult. The
more experience in any of these will improve anyone’s ability to
successfully complete them. Another is the pave. 90 percent of the
time for pave is in the layout, not the setting. With the use of CAD
pave can also be accomplished in a short period of time, except
again, for the layout. The other thing that has always been
interesting to me is the nomenclature of the terms internationally
we use for crowns, heads, claws, prongs…etc. And yes diamond
setting or any kind of stone setting is an art form all in itself.

Cheerio Gerry and keep on educating our craft.

Russ
President/CEO
www.thejewelrycadinstitute.com


#3

Russ

I feel Princess stones are high up in the difficulty level, why so?
There are 4 ways to chip the stone, 4 sharp corners. Lets not forget
about the “Vee, or Chevron” corners. If these corner claws are not
properly sculptured at the girdle with the use of #006 / #007 round
burs, the possibility of chipping is at it’s greatest. Did we not
forget cutting a layout seat for the Pavilion? This where the stone
MUST REST AGAINST. Filing to trim each claw is another skill in
itself. I file each claw to the Princess stone, at 45 degree angle.
This is now that the claws seem to be as one with the larger
diamond…not just large blobs of metal covering the expensive stone.
*This is definitely a “skill in filing”, this not for the feint of
heart…This why I still rate Princess high up on the difficulty
scale.

BTW, I even bright-cut* inside the claws.*…now try this with a
loose bench-pin…LOL!

Gerry!


#4

I guess we have to remember we are of the elite. I agree, bright cut
the pavillion to match the stone. Of course, we all learn the seat
"mimics" the girdle edge and pavillion. I always used a 90 degree
bearing, ball bur to protect the point. I also used the ball down
the pavillion angle at the point. This I feel relieved the point from
any contact leaving just two sides of the chevron to set the stone.
That is why I consider it not easy but by no means the hardest for
me. I could do those babies all day long…but to a novice I can
understand the hesitancy. Keep on Gerry…we all have a lot to learn
from each other.

Russ