Christine- No charts that I know of. though I’ll bet there’s a paper
out there somewhere.
I see that you are the president of the Michigan Silversmiths Guild
and an Adjunct Professor at Wayne State. If you need more
scientific/technical info for your students than I can provide, I’d
recommend that you check out the papers from The Santa Fe Symposium.
They have the most up to date scientific metals info I know of. They
paid more attention in school than I Here are the basics as I know…
Just heat it up. When I anneal I unless it’s platinum I coat it with
fire coat, turn out the shop lights If I can and heat with a softish
Platinum no coating, a hard flame, and you must wear platinum
glasses and heat to really glowing red hot and hold for at least 90
Silver and gold I fire coat and heat til just barely showing pink. I
always cool a bit and then quench while warm, not hot. Rose gold must
be quenched hot and white gold should be allowed to air cool. Red
gold will get very brittle if not quenched hot and white gold will
get very hard if quenched hot. If I need spring in the metal, like
say on a clasp tongue I will quench white gold.
I like to anneal with the lights off so that I can see the color
The softish flame helps reduce oxides. Too much oxygen = oxidation.
By softish I mean not a blue pin point but blue with just a hint of
red at the end. It’ll take practice.
There are so many alloys out there that if you are using one that is
new to you, it’s best to contact the supplier and ask.
I love to work in Continuum silver and it must be quenched after
kiln hardening to get maximum strength and hardness.
Have fun and make lots of jewelry.