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Fusion welding


#1

Hi Rick,

That is to what I was referring. I don’t own a Sparkie II (wish
I did), but I have occasional access to one. Fire away, I’ll
tell you what I can. Bill Seeley, of Reactive Metals Studio in
AZ, is probably the most accessible authority on them… his
company sells them. If I can’t answer your question(s), I’ll try
and track down his email address.

Dave


#2

Thanks Dave I bought the Sparkie II from Reactive Metals even
though it is made here in MA. The problem is getting sterling
findingd to fuse to sterling- I’m applying pin findings and cuff
link joints to etched sterling items that have epoxy resin color
enamels in them for a wholesale client. I am getting burn marks
using the booster pack. Have more of the order to do and I want
to get the system down pat.

Rick Hamilton


#3

That is to what I was referring. I don’t own a Sparkie II (wish
I did), but I have occasional access to one. Fire away, I’ll
tell you what I can. Bill Seeley, of Reactive Metals Studio in
AZ, is probably the most accessible authority on them… his
company sells them. If I can’t answer your question(s), I’ll try
and track down his email address. Dave

Bill Seeley can be contacted at

reactive@sedona.net

Brain Press
Box 1624, Ste M, Calgary,
Alberta, T2P 2L7, Canada
Tel: 403-263-3955 Fax: 403-283-9053
Email: @Charles_Lewton-Brain

Metals info download web site:
https://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm Product descriptions:
https://www.ganoksin.com/kosana/brain/brain.htm Links list hosted at
the Metal Web News:
http://tbr.state.tn.us/~wgray/jewelry/jewelry-link.html


#4

Rick Hamilton wrote:

Thanks Dave I bought the Sparkie II from Reactive Metals even
though it is made here in MA. The problem is getting sterling
findingd to fuse to sterling- I'm applying pin findings and cuff
link joints to etched sterling items that have epoxy resin color
enamels in them for a wholesale client. I am getting burn marks
using the booster pack. Have more of the order to do and I want
to get the system down pat.

Rick:

I use an additional wire to connect to the jig fixture and hold
it against the piece of jewelry I am fusing to. This further
guarantees that the electric charge will pass through the piece
of jewelry properly.

I usually get flash marks when using the booster pack and large
findings. I have heard of Batterns self pickling flux to improve
the weld on sterling, I have not tried this one yet.

I have not had success in fusing sterling posts to sterling. I
use the heavier post available and do not get an acceptable
fusion. I am open to suggestions here. I Sparkie sterling posts
on and then solder them for production work. However, for repairs
I have found that titanium and surgical steel posts work very
well on sterling. I prefer the titanium. Most customers do not
care as they just want to be able to wear the earring again.
Perhaps the thinner sterling posts work ok, but I do not use them
as I know they will break anyway.

The folks at Triad (Royal Findings) are very helpful no matter
where you bought their machine. Andy and his wife attend a lot of
the major trade shows that involve jewelers. If you have any
technical questions you might give them a call. Their number is
508-222-8173. Call and get on their mailing list anyway as they
send out a nice newsletter with tips on using their products.

These machines as with any process requires some experience for
optimal results, but it is well worth the effort.

I hope this helps.
Kenneth Gastineau
@Kenneth_Gastineau1


#5
Thanks Dave I bought the Sparkie II from Reactive Metals even
though it is made here in MA. The problem is getting sterling
findingd to fuse to sterling- I'm applying pin findings and cuff
link joints to etched sterling items that have epoxy resin color
enamels in them for a wholesale client. I am getting burn marks
using the booster pack. Have more of the order to do and I want
to get the system down pat.

rick,
i have found if you have trouble with the fuse, leave off the
soappy water and up the meter setting a notch or two.

david horn


#6

Hi Rick,

The booster pack is missing from the unit I was using, so I was
running without it. These castings were fairly heavy, and
uneven, which made fusion welding especially challenging. I was
welding pin findings onto these pieces.

I still ended up with a bit of a burn mark around the weld area,
but is was cleaned fairly easily with a little buffing. My only
guess is to give it a shot with just the standard power supply…
maybe you’re running more juice than necessary through the
machine. I don’t know that the burn mark can be completely
avoided though.

Dave Sebaste


#7

I use an additional wire to connect to the jig fixture and hold
it against the piece of jewelry I am fusing to. This further
guarantees that the electric charge will pass through the piece
of jewelry properly. Batterns self pickling flux to improve
the weld on sterling, I have not tried this one yet.
The folks at Triad (Royal Findings) are very helpful no matter
where you bought their machine. Andy and his wife attend a lot of
the major trade shows that involve jewelers. If you have any
technical questions you might give them a call. Their number is
508-222-8173. Call and get on their mailing list anyway as they
send out a nice newsletter with tips on using their products.

Thanks Kenneth

I called Michelle at Reactive (she suggested the extra
connection, too) yesterday at Dave,s suggestion, I’ll call Triad
and see if they have further info, and as for their newsletter. I
have battern’s flux and will give that a try too.

Rick Hamilton

Richard D. Hamilton
Goldsmith
http://www.rick-hamilton.com
@rick_hamilton


#8

i have found if you have trouble with the fuse, leave off the
soappy water and up the meter setting a notch or two.

Thanks David- What do you define “notch or two” as? up 5 volts?
(most fusing I’ve done is at about 65 volts)

Rick Hamilton
Goldsmith
http://www.rick-hamilton.com
@rick_hamilton


#9

Thanks Dave-

According to the feedback (thanks everyone) Seems that part of
the solution is to clip a wire to the item that you are fusing
to. I’ll give that a try when we get back to that project…
and post the results of the effort.

Rick Hamilton

Richard D. Hamilton
Goldsmith
http://www.rick-hamilton.com
@rick_hamilton


#10

rick,

my problem was tie tack posts. recomended dc volts was 130. i
kept it dry and went to 140. jumping 10 volts aren’t going to
hurt anything. the wire trick may also help; i clipped a wire to
the wing screw on the collet and held the stripped end between my
finger and the work. triad sends out a news letter each month or
two so ask them to send you the last two years worth. they will
be in tucson at the rio booth if you are going. i’ve taken my
problem pieces and they take them back and figure out the
solution.

david


#11

my problem was tie tack posts. recomended dc volts was 130. i
kept it dry and went to 140. jumping 10 volts aren’t going to
hurt anything. the wire trick may also help; i clipped a wire to
the wing screw on the collet and held the stripped end between my
finger and the work. triad sends out a news letter each month or
two so ask them to send you the last two years worth. they will
be in tucson at the rio booth if you are going. i’ve taken my
problem pieces and they take them back and figure out the
solution.

Somewhere along the way during the studio move last April the
sparkie manual wandered away. Like I said most of the stuff I’ve
been doing- fusing titanium or 14k posts etc has been at about
65 volts

Rick Hamilton
Goldsmith
http://www.rick-hamilton.com
@rick_hamilton