Hi. I just joined because I have a question and didn’t find anywhere else to ask it. I work in anodized aluminum. I don’t do the anodizing, but buy sheet, wire, etc. already anodized. That said, I’m trying to figure out how to make a cupped and ruffled edge in a small flower petal cut out of sheet. Imagine a soft, rounded ‘M’ shaped edge. On each upward hump I’d like to have the metal cup. I have a dapping block and daps. Using the block would mar the surface. I’m thinking I need to form the shape into a soft surface like leather, or rubber, or a soft durethane. Do any of you have any suggestions on what to use that won’t mar the surface but will enable me to create the shape I’m looking for? Thank you.
Industrial press bakes use thin sheet urethane - about 1/32" - to avoid marring. The V-dies they press into are also urethane, or lined with it. There are a couple of sellers on eBay that carry that sheet in smaller quantities. I would suggest creating positive and negative hardwood forms, padding, and forming with a good bench vise one petal at a time. Leather or polyethylene might also work. Critical: make sure everything is clean.
Thank you. I appreciate your reply and will start looking down that avenue. I do have a 20 ton press that would be rather more than adequate.
Some mail orders come protected by thin sheets of white foam rather than bubble wrap and should work for just protecting against scratches during pressing - and you may already have some.
Neil A
It’s been a while, but I did a lot of aluminum anodized jewelry back in the 80’s and 90’s. Anodized aluminum has some quirks that will affect your ability to shape it.
Anodized aluminum is different from anodized titanium, niobium, tantalum, etc (those metals are known as reactive metals). Anodized aluminum has an oxide coat that is porous and will accept a dye. (The oxide coat is built up by immersing the aluminum in a sulphuric acid solution with electricity flowing through it). After the metal is dyed, it is sealed by boiling in a nickel acetate solution. After the colored oxide coat is sealed, the surface is hardened and is scratch resistant.
With whatever metal forming process that you pick, I think you’re going to need to do some experimentation to see what will or won’t damage the surface. At some point when forming anodized aluminum, the aluminum’s colored oxide coat will crack. When that will happen it’s hard to say. That’s why you’re going to need to do some experiments.
Another potential issue is that aluminum is often sold in a tempered (or hardened) state, which will make it be more difficult to shape and form.
You might need to reach out to your supplier to see if your anodized aluminum is soft and formable or is a hardened alloy.
The ideal way to do what you’re suggesting would be to form the aluminum before it’s anodized and then anodize it after it is in the desired shape. I know that you can’t do that, which is why I’m suggesting to experiment.
One trick that might help to keep the metal from scratching while forming would be to cover your metal with sticky shelf paper or packing tape.
I know that doesn’t answer all of your questions, but it’s a start. Best of luck!!
Jeff
Thank you for your input. I have played with my aluminum quite a bit. This includes fold forming. The aluminum isn’t as much fun as copper for this.
Again, Thank you.
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