Thank you for your reply.
Im in the UK and have been making cuffs for 50 odd yrs( with hindsight my favorite piece of worn on the body jewellery) in just about every design possible, and enjoyed it too,
So the difference between flat curved or compound curved is, flat is like a cut out of a tube, flat one way, and curved the other.
Compound is curved BOTH ways, like a section of a sphere. Youll come to those in the future,. these are wrought from flat by hammering/thinning the metal most in the middle and less toward the outside of the strip.
Next!, Here we do not call bezel strip wire . Its strip, whatever width needed to hold the stone to its mounting.
So, now I know the stone and cuff measurments, and what your struggling with , if yove not got the curvature right the 1st time, the other way is to make the bezel strip fit the stone, make it 12/15mm wide, place it on a piece of paper. draw around.
Then glue this piece of paper to the copper. saw just inside the line… Then fit the shaped strip through the cut out with enough sticking out outside of the cuff, and a minimum of 3mm inside.
Solder in place.
then cut away anything thats more than 3mm underneath.
then dress the 3mm underneath LEVEL for the stone to sit on… This will make a ledge to support the stone.
Also looks good. When fitting the stone, you dont need sawdust.
Give it some thought. youll get there.