Charles, I just noticed you have a video on fold forming in the GIA catalog
and I was wondering if it applies the technique specifically to jewelry
It is a very early video (I had a lot more hair) and deals with
seven or so folds, just the folding, not how to apply the
structures to jewelery.
I had taken a workshop in the procedure a while back, but it was
geared more toward metalsmithing (sculptures and the like). I
had tried >working it in 24g 14k after the workshop with rather
I generally recommend people work out their ideas completely in
copper of the same guage before going to gold. You will need to
anneal the gold about three times more often than the copper.
Also it depends which folds you were doing. It can also help not
to be shy with the hammer (if a hammered fold) as pushing the
metal closer to its limits tends to look better.
The metal seemed to workharden too quickly, or maybe I was
Yup, it does require a lot of annealing. Note that if you see
any visible red glow on your metal it is too hot. You watch the
flame where it leaves the metal and it turns yellow/orange at
theright temperature, shortly before the metal starts to glow.
Quench immediately for the best crystal structure. Annealing too
hot and air cooling may both lead to cracking.
After forming the metal, I had tried to solder some heads into
the fold for diamonds and the stresses in the metal actually
caused the fold to break when I heated it.
Most unusual. Perhaps anneal the sheet before soldering onto it,
this may help.
I also had difficulty getting reproducible results (I was
trying to make a pair of earrings), but I assume that that is just a matter
When designing a line item (a reporducible one) it takes me a
bout 1-2 days to work out all the steps, even if I can do an
approximation in 5 minutes. There are brass templates to scribe
around for sizes, stages are recorded etc.
hope this helps.
I’ll post this to the list as well.
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