Filling holes and repairing carving wax can be frustrating at times.
Some times the addition of repair wax will trap a bubble under the
surface. This can lead to the lighter color of the wax at the repair
One can check for air pockets in the wax by pulling a vacuum on the
model. The air pockets will pop out if they are close to the surface.
If the surface of the bubble does not break away under a vacuum the
bubble will not be a problem when vacuuming the investment.
The wax used to fill a hole MUST be melted into the model. The model
wax and the added wax must be melted together. The joint between
added wax and the model will be very weak if the base wax is not
Some times the repair will leave a recessed area next to the repair
spot. The hot tool melts some of the border of the repair and the
melted wax flows into the main body of the repair. These areas can
be repaired by loading the wax pen with wax and causing the melted
bead to flow into the recessed areas while all the repair spot is
Round tips on the wax pen works better. I mentioned a battery powered
hand soldering tool (not the one advertised as an instant cool tip
when turned off) in a previous post. It has a bullet tip and works
better for repairing problems than any tip of my wax pen.
Some time ago someone posted a recommendation to use Kerr green wax
to repair pits etc. I never tried it. I use the same wax the model
is made with.
Be sure to cool the hot flask as described in one of the
anti-firescale papers added to the Orchid Bench tips. You will not
get firescale if you follow the very simple process.