Finishing no enamelled surfaces

Dear Orchidians, I am a jeweller from Vicenza in Northern Italy.I am
trying to obtain jewellery with gemstones and enamels. I prepare the
metalwork (yellow gold alloy 18 Kt) annealing and pickling
repeatedly until no discoloration is produced by the annealing
(depletion gilding). When I use green and blu enamels (those that I
have tried till now ) I get good colors. I obtain good results also
in enamel finishing. The question is that I am not able to finish
the no enamelled metallous surface; it remains always crinkled even
if subsequently I use deburring blocks , polishing paste (rouge) and
finally “diamantine” pasta.This happens also on silver (sterling)
surface.Do You have any suggestion?

Thank You very much for Your help.!

Mariano
@mfs_vicenza

If I understand you right, it is the unenameled metal surface that
is the problem. I have not worked with 18 K gold but I do work with
silver. The surface that you describe sounds as if it is reticulated.
The process of depletion gilding is the first step when doing
reticulation on purpose. This makes a pure silver coat that covers
the sterling alloy. When the proper amount of heat is applied, the
interior (sterling) will melt but the skin of pure silver does not.
When the flame is removed, the “skin” wrinkles as the sterling
solidifies. It’s possible to somewhat control the amount of wrinkling
and where it is with experience. I suspect that the temperature that
you are fusing the enamels is a bit high for the metal or the amount
of metal. Does this happen with thick gages as well as thin?
Marilyn Smith

Dear Orchidians, I am a jeweller from Vicenza in Northern Italy.I am
trying to obtain jewellery with gemstones and enamels. I prepare the
metalwork (yellow gold alloy 18 Kt) annealing and pickling
repeatedly until no discoloration is produced by the annealing
(depletion gilding). When I use green and blu enamels (those that I
have tried till now ) I get good colors. I obtain good results also
in enamel finishing. The question is that I am not able to finish
the no enamelled metallous surface; it remains always crinkled even
if subsequently I use deburring blocks , polishing paste (rouge) and
finally “diamantine” pasta.This happens also on silver (sterling)
surface.Do You have any suggestion?

Thank You very much for Your help.!

Mariano
@mfs_vicenza