Can anyone recommend a good affordable fiber laser
Depends on what you want to do with it. Be a bit more specific and some of us might be able to pass on some suggestions…Rob
I would like to be able to do name designs for id bracelets
Exactly what do you mean? Cutting out names from sheet metal? Or etching / engraving them on the surface of metal as a design? A powerful fiber laser can do both, but a lesser machine can do only the later.
Neil A
You might consider a CNC mill instead of a laser, depending on what you want to do and if you can accept slower processing time vs quick turn-around. The software you use also enters into this.
As a laser newbie I’m doing a test project for making box clasps - when time allows, which is not often. This is the unfinished tongue portion, laser cut from 24 ga. Argentium. It took just a few minutes with a 60 watt laser.
I find Lightburn software less easy to use in the design phase than my CAD software, in this case getting the hole centered, and node editing the vectors for smoother curves and straighter lines.
To be honest, I much prefer my CNC mill over the laser for greater versatility. This is under 2" wide, entirely milled:
A laser could duplicate this much more quickly, but would have a much cruder background texture, never as sparkly as this. The background texturing was milled with a Stuller 0.3mm ball bur.
You can also cut seats for stones and do other things with various burs with a CNC mill that a laser never could. Another test, in copper, with 2mm CZs:
The precision in seat placement is all down to the CAD software, in this case designed once, copy/pasted 3 times. This kind of precision would be so much harder to do with Lightburn and likely the xtool program - if it can be done at all.
Depending on how simple or complex you want to design, Lightburn or other laser software (as with the xtool) may be good enough, but I can do so much more with CAD software, and it is the software that drives the results.
Hope this helps.
Neil A
Im pretty upset xtool came out w the f2 that cuts deeper one month after buying mine. Ugg. Anyway, what inexpensive cnc mill and cad software di uou suggest? Thinking of selling one of my lasers to buy.
Kimberly, start by looking into the CAD software to get an idea of what you might be able to do. If you can’t do it in the software then the CNC machine won’t be able to either.
For essentially sheet metal jewelry (no cluster rings etc.) I think Vectric software is tops. There are a number of cost / functionality levels so you don’t have to over-buy, and their video tutorials are great. If you outgrow a basic version you can buy the next higher version by paying only the price difference.
You get free minor version updates, like V. 11.0 to 11.1. When they release a major update, 11.x to 12.0 there is a cost increase, but you don’t have to buy it. Your current version is yours and will continue to run.
You can see a comparison chart here:
and there is a free trial period. Check out their tutorials even before trying the software.
As to CNC machines, there are so many. Three or 4 years ago an Orchid member posted something about selling them and on their website there were many to choose from, with a lot of options from low priced to higher. Unfortunately I don’t recall the member’s name or the website.
My family bought me a Carbide 3D Nomad 883 for Christmas, as seen here:
What surprises me is that they came out with an updated version a few years ago replacing the Nomad 883 and discontinuing the 883, but I don’t see that on their website and the 883 is back. ??? You might ask them about that if you are interested. The newer version did have useful improvements.
Again, there are other machines. Many, including the Nomad, feature the milling of wood. The Carbide 3D Shapeoko, which uses a router, is aimed strictly for wood, and does not have the precision you’d want for jewelry work. Precision is more important than power.
With the Nomad, once I home the bit to the center of the piece I can run a step, change bits, run the next step, and know that the machine will still know where the center is within hundredths of a millimeter. I’ve done 4 or 5 bit changes and everything lines up perfectly.
For fine work on metal raw power of the motor is not relevant. Before I learned how far to push, and not push the cutting speed, I broke a 1/8" high speed steel end mill. Generally I work with finer bits. I’ve done detail work with a Stuller 0.3mm ball bur, which has @ a 0.1mm stem between the ball and the shaft, and power is what you don’t need for that. An important thing to learn at the beginning is feeds & speeds - how deep to cut, how fast (or slow).
For specific questions please feel free to PM me directly.
Neil A
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Does anyone have any new observations to share regarding the fiber laser market? Since we last discussed them, xtool has come out with the ultra and Laser Pecker has come out with the Laser Pecker 5. I am still on the ropes regarding the minimum wattage I need and whether or not it needs to be a MOPA. I am not looking to do a lot of 3D work, just some silver cutting, engraving and marking. I am leaning towards a 30 watt fiber. Thanks for any updates…Rob
Rob, Commarker has some new, very interesting machines. Some now have auto-focus, which if it works precisely would be great. Mine has a red centering dot and 2 ‘triangulating’ dots that merge into a single dot when the focus is right. However, if you change a lens the 2 ‘lamps’ need to be re-aimed and that is a pain.
Some people make a plastic T of the exact focal length and just put the bottom on the target and the top across the lens. Very sensible, but I haven’t gotten a round tuit yet.
They have reduced the physical size (and weight) of their machines as well.
They also have their equivalent to the xTool dual laser. I don’t know how they compare for power or functionality. You’d have to compare specs.
MOPA offers some minor advantages but unless you are going to work on stainless steel or titanium, you won’t be able to engrave in colors, so that main selling point may not be of use to you.
A 30 watt fiber laser will take at least twice as long to cut as deeply as a 60 watt. Depending on the size of the piece and how deeply you want to cut, a large job could run hours. Time you can walk away and do something else, so not necessarily a deal breaker.
My only experience is with Commarker, so I can’t compare it to anything else, but I really like the company. Their customer support when buying is great. Tech support is also very good. I’ve gotten email replies to questions in as quickly as a few minutes!
The documentation that came with my machine was minimal, but if you study their configuration files for the various lenses you can extract the data you need, if you don’t want to bother tech support.
There is the software half of the deal, as well. Lightburn is o.k. and stable. It is easier to use on a larger monitor than on a smaller one, but will work o.k. on a standard laptop screen.
You can work in other CAD programs and import a finished design into Lightburn, but that means learning two programs. You can do a lot in just Lightburn.
Hope this helps.
Neil A
Neil…Thanks! As you know, I have been following this market for a long time as a laser is something that I want. I really have no need for one. I am reminded of this fact often by others who live with me. I also want a metal lathe. I bought a mini lathe years ago and it just didn’t have the power to do what little I needed doing, so I sold it. I just paid a guy $75 to do a job that could have easily been done for a lot less if I had the right tooling. Such is the case for many of the tasks that we pay someone else to do for us. I hope you had a good Thanksgiving. We just ate leftovers and will likely eat some more tomorrow…Rob
Just thought I might jump in on your laser discussion … I am currently shipping my metal to Vancouver to be laser cut … Yes, it’s quite expensive per piece but from what I have seen on pricing with machines like X-tool. Holy mose$$$$$$$$. Would need to be doing a lot of pieces per month to break even … could take years?
Thank you! I’m just seeing this, sorry, been in a creative slump.
Yeah I’ve spent $10,000 in machines there lol
After a lot of research about small lathes, regardless of who sells it, it appears that they are all made in China, probably in the same factory. Can anyone recommend a good 1/2 - 1 HP brushless motor, variable speed, metal lathe? Thanks…Rob
Have you looked at the Taig lathes? They’re made in Arizona. Normally they come with a 1/4 hp induction motor, but they have a 3/4 hp variable speed motor they can put on it for an extra $200, or you could use any motor you’d like. I don’t have them on my site yet, but I’m a Taig dealer and could sell you one if you’re interested. https://taigtools.com/product-category/starter-sets/
I bought a very complete Taig several years ago and tried to make it do what I wanted to do. Not withstanding the fact that I initially had no idea what I was doing, once I figured things out, I still couldn’t turn a piece of 1-2" steel in a way that met my needs and they don’t cut threads. In the Taig’s defense, I was only using HSS tools. I sold it all and am looking at a bigger, more powerful, brushless lathe in the .5 - 1 HP range with indexed tools. Unless it is a very old rebuild project, all of these lathes new, regardless of who sells them, appear to come from China. In an of itself, this is not a problem except that most of the reviews I read say that you need to do a lot of work dialing these machines in. I am just looking for a tool that will allow me to turn the various tools that I need. I have looked at a lot of older USA made bigger lathes in need of work and I would love to buy one, but I really don’t need another obsession, I just need a tool that will do what I need and fit the space available. Thanks…Rob
Andrew –
Are you sure the Taig tools are actually made in Arizona? I believe they’re made in China. I have a Grizzly (Sieg) mill that’s made in China. The mill is solid and accurate and I’m quite happy with it. I have a vintage South Bend (WWII era) lathe so don’t need another one but if I did I’d definitely look at the Taig lathes.
Check out: Little Machine Shop mini lathe comparison
– alonzo
I am looking real hard at the 5100. Little Machine sells a lot of machines in the size that I want, have the tools to run them and offer lots of support. Their techs assure me that they will turn a 1" piece of soft steel…Rob
I don’t know how big of lathe you are looking for. I have a couple of Unimats very small but definitely not made in China. Also older craftsman lathes are an alternative. Judy
While very nice, the Unimats are to small. There is a perfectly restored watchmakers lathe for sale nearby for $600. I would love to have it, but it won’t do what I need to do so it would just be one more piece in my tool museum. I am currently looking at the Little Machine Shop 5100. If I buy something, I will post my experience. Lots of snow and cold air here in Central NY. I have had to snowblow out the driveway twice today. I have used my snowblower more this week than all of last year…Rob
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