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Fabricating round channel settings


#1

I am interested in learning how to fabricate round channel
settings. All the books I have read fail to mentionn small
details like metal thickness and most are geared towards emerald
cut, tourmaline settings. Can some one out there assist with
some details for a self-taught, somewhat isolat ed, craftperson?
Thanks!!


#2

Kathie i assume you are talking about channel settings for round
stones. i prefer to set diamonds and diamond cut colored stones
as they have a sharper girdle and a smaller pavilion. not
rounded like so many colored stones are cut. I like my channels
to be .2mm narrower than the diameter of the stones. a 2 mm
channel takes a 2.1to 2.2 mm stone. when fabricating a channel
or cutting in a wax i use a leverage guage and a optical
comparator to be sure channels and stones are the correct
sizes.accuracy is everything in a channel to finish it
correctly.i like a channel wall that is at least .5mm to 1.5mm
depending on the size of the stones and the look of the finished
piece. i always mark the height of the location for the girdle
of the stone in the channel with a pair of dividers. marking the
length of the channel on both sides so the seats of the stones
are all cut on a level consistant height. hope this helps and
makes sense. luck Frank


#3

Round like a watch bezel or round like a ring?


#4

WOW! … tall order for a description… but I’ll start. I have
done them in 2 ways depending on the length of the channel and
number of stones. For Short curved chanels I use a graver, Long
curved channels, I use a ??? … its a burr that looks like a
very, very small saw wheel (best I can do). to cut the channel
after scratching (or whatever) the surface to insure a straigh
channel ( This is done AFTER the seat is matched for a large(?)
single stone setting.).

Jim