Hopw to fabricate bezels for trillion cut stones
- Cut a strip of metal for the bezel
- Bend the strip to match the outside curve of the trillion
- Use dividers to measure the distance between the points of the trillion and transfer that distance (+half the thickness of the metal) to the curved strip.
- Use a saw to score the metal at those points perpendicular to the length of the strip and then a square needle file to remove the material from those sections. (Exactly the same as you would make a square bezel or box, but with curved sides). Side note: The deeper you file, the crisper the corner will be when you fold it, but you will also run the risk of going too deep and having the bezel fall apart before you can solder it.
- Bend the strip along those 3 corners you’ve now scored and filed. Hold it closed with binding wire and solder the 3 points.
Alternately, get a trillion-style drawplate and draw the appropriate thickness of tubing down to the required size (this is particularly useful if they are smaller settings and/or you need to make multiples.)
Hope that helps!
When I first started making jewellery, I made life really difficult for myself by teaching myself how to make bezel settings of all shapes. I’m glad I did, as I can now set any shape of stone, but it was a steep learning curve, particularly as my tool set was pretty basic - and still is! I used to use a triangular mandril to make the basic shape, but a little larger than the stone’s sides if measured corner to corner in a straight line. Then I used a round mandril to gently put a curve into all three sides. I repeated the process to make an inner (step) bezel for the stone to sit. As I say, I made life difficult for myself! I’ll be interested to see some more answers to your question.
Helen, I only ask of you is to make the ‘Chevron’ claws thick. This is to
allow for room to prepare for setting and little extra for stone security.
Many times these have no hint of a Girdle on these delicate stones. The
’corner-points’ are almost razor sharp…Breakage is almost a certainty! I
avoided to have any stone even come close to touching the inside of the
"vee" shaped claws. The Pavilions are sometimes quite deep. I would use a
#007 round bur to avoid any setting problems. When fabricating these 'vee’
claws, keep these pieces of information in mind! T.T.F.N. regards!..:>)
*Gerry Lewy *
- (905) 886-5961 *
Hi Gerry, I was talking about full bezel settings rather than V-claws. I always use a ball burr in the corners to make a depression so the corners of the stone are not touching the metal. I’ve learned from my mistakes and generous people such as yourself.