Hello! I’m new to this forum and hope that someone can help me with this. I’ve seen a ring with the gemstone set in a belcher setting (also called a buttercup setting). Has anyone made a setting like this? Can you help me with how it is made, please? Thank you for any help!
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I’ve repaired prongs and set stones in this style of setting, but I’ve never made a Belcher/buttercup setting myself. I’ve always imagined that I’d carve it out of wax and cast it if I did make one.
Let’s see what others suggest.
Jeff
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Hi,
Here are two pretty examples of belcher setting rings i found being sold online, from eragen.com
basically, in simple terms, imagine starting out with a solid ring, and then systematically removing metal to “reveal” the prongs…
for example, as a wax carved model, one would create a signet style ring, then use drills/ appropriately shaped burs to open up the “spaces” between the prongs…
wax carving is a great way to create models with “volume” or organic lines/ shapes…versus fabricating with sheet and wire…
a belcher-style head setting could be fabricated/ created by making a thick, beveled or domed edge bezel and removing material to “reveal” the prongs…
think “removing metal” and, what it looks like before metal is removed
julie
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Thank you for the ideas! From your suggestion, I’m thinking I would use a dapping tool to form a dome that can be carved out for a faceted stone. I’m looking for that seamless transition between bezel and ring like in the first example you posted, that looks like it was built up from the ring and then carved. Would I be on the right track with that idea? Thank you again for your help and patience with a newcomer!
Hi,
yes, the first example is made from one solid form.
you could carve in wax, and then 1) send out to be cast, if you do not do casting, or 2) , do as a sand casting since it is a rather simple shape, if you are interested in investing in a sand casting setup…
Here is a two part video of Craig Dabler doing a sand casting of a similar type of ring…Craig is using a metal master ring, not a wax carved model…
julie
Thank you so very much!
Usually a Belcher style ring is solid, not formed from a hollowed dome shape.
As mentioned earlier, picture starting with a solid signet, or solid dome ring.
Drill the central hole vertically, shape the ring to the desired profile, then file or cut away and shape the grooves to leave the prongs. Clean up and polish those grooves and the sides of the promgs.
You now have a Belcher mounting, ready to set.
This mounting can be done in wax and then cast, or done directly in metal.
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Thank you! That makes a lot of sense as it would be a much stronger ring and setting.
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