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Experience with anderson miniature sawframes


#1

Has anyone used the Anderson Miniature Sawframes? I’m not sure I can
see any advantage over regular saw frames, which can also be
adjusted to use broken saw blades…Seems they would be hard to
work with given the way you have to hold them…

Janet in Jerusalem


#2

Hi Janet;

Has anyone used the Anderson Miniature Sawframes? 

I bought a couple of them, thinking they’d come in handy for close
work. Impossible to hold on to them, I’m going to try addings some
thumb-and-one-finger handles using jet set. I’ll keep you posted,
maybe put up pics.

David L. Huffman


#3

I’m the Anderson who designed the miniature saw frames. Just like to
clear up a little of the confusion about their use. This is not a
general purpose saw. If you are sawing out designs from sheet, ring
sizing, cutting sprues from castings etc. use a regular jewelers
saw. I have been a jeweler for many years. I saw every day. Even
though I have the miniature saws, about 98% of my sawing is done with
a regular saw. So, what is the use of the miniature saw, and why
doesn’t it have a handle on the end? I had a need for a delicate
little saw to do work around prongs when making small adjustments for
setting. I made the original out of wire. You can make one too. Just
silver solder a couple of 6-32 nuts to a bent piece of 1/8" steel
wire. I eventually improved upon this for production. It does have a
plastic handle, but I kept it small. With a larger handle I lost some
of the delicate control. If you want a short blade with a handle,
Knew Concepts has an excellent 3" saw. I use my miniature saw for
those touchy little jobs. I might start setting a stone, find after
partially bending the prongs that one seat is a little too high. I
thread my blade under there and shave off a little under the stone,
without having to remove the stone. I will use it the same way on top
of the stone if I find the prong is going to pinch a delicate girdle
too much. I use the miniature saw for close work in touching up wax
carvings, azures, scrolls etc. Not for the general cut up. For that I
use a regular saw, or my Minitech mill. If you are blessed with a
laser welder, keep one in the cabinet. When it is necessary to make a
saw cut for penetration, You don’t have to get up and go to your
bench. It is especially handy if you are in a shop where the laser is
shared by other jewelers. You don’t lose your place at the laser when
you go to saw. Many people have mentioned using broken blades. Not a
big deal. By the time they break, most are dull anyway. I usually use
a new blade and just break it off. Sorry I couldn’t design the saw
short enough to get two blades from one.

David Anderson


#4

Hi David Anderson;

Don’t get me wrong, these are handy gadgets. My other jeweler and I
both thought these saws would come in handy for tiny work. It’s just
that I can’t quite keep hold of the back of the saw frame, so I plan
to pinch a little jet sett (or other thermo-plastic) on it to enable
me to steer it around without it twisting in my fingers. I’ve been
trying them with 8/0 saw blades for narrow kerf cuts because with
that light a blade, it’s easy to break a full length blade, whereas,
if I’m just using an inch or so of the blade anyway, they hold up
better in a short length. Just the weight of a big frame can break
those hair thin blades. Mostly I got them for re-defining designs in
filligree rings where a large saw frame is awkward. Sometimes if I’m
repairing one of these, I have to go back in and clean up solder
where I don’t want it. I appreciate your suggestions about other
applications of these saw frames and next time such situations come
up, I’ll see how I like them for it. I still think these are a
worthwhile addition to a jeweler’s tool selection. Looking forward to
seeing any other ideas you come up with so please keep us posted on
anything new.

David L. Huffman


#5

I have your saw, David, and find it very useful in ways just as you
have described! :slight_smile:

Beckie