Hi All! I have been researching for some time about champleve with vitreous frit and I have some questions that have been unanswered by some books recommended on this site. For reference I was inspired by the goldsmith and artist Cece Jewellery, I am trying to make my own signet ring. I haven’t seen a clear answer for if I can paint each layer and then let dry, repeat and then fire once all dry? if I have to wait for each layer to cool down properly that’s fine, I just am impatient. I also haven’t seen any suggestions on how to set up a ring in a kiln that will have frit on the shoulders and top. Do I do them individual, how will I make sure the already fired sides don’t melt? is Vitreous have a higher temp once solidified. I was looking at beehive kilns, but the more I look into it I don’t know I should go with something bigger? I will only do rings and small pendents. Thank you all for your advice!
HI,
A few things I learned the hard way, when making a heavy signet ring:
(I am going off of memory, but I think I can recall correctly, because it was a traumatic learning process for me!)
be aware of the weight/ thickness of the metal of the signet ring design…ie: if very heavy/ not hollowed out, differing areas of thickness where you will be enameling…
the metal acts as a heat sink…and it takes longer to heat to temperature…
I learned this the hard way…I accidentally left the ring in the kiln “too long” or so I thought…it was glowing orange when i remembered to check on it…but, apparently that is what was needed to fire the ring properly…it wasn’t until then that I got a proper firing…
different thicknesses of metal within the signet ring design cool at different rates…
think expansion and contraction…of the metal…of the different enamel qualities…all happening at the same time…
in my case, with a heavy design, my thick layer of enamel (signet top) was initially cracking as it cooled…if I recall correctly, I was advised to stay well under 1.0mm enamel thickness…
the base metal under the enamel top was thick…the shoulders of the signet were very heavy…the bezel surrounding the enamel was 1.0mm thick (or i should say, thin, in comparison…)
I suggest building a “hut” to allow the piece to cool down slowly…I put my ring under a metal bowl, covered with oven mitts…doors shut…no breeze or fans…this allowed the ring to cool down slowly and avoid enamel cracking
Julie
Can you just shut the kiln off and leave the piece in the kiln?..Rob
Hi!
you see?..this is why I aspire to be just like you!
Julie
That you for the advice! From what I read I will do solid with around 1.5-2mm for the top and shoulders and taper down just a bit in the middle of the shank. I’m trying to not have to counter enamel. I want to test on pure silver, first and then go to yellow gold to save money.
Since I’ve never had a kiln before, will turning it on an off consecutively wear it out faster or even at all? Also, I’m going to try and get opaque medium heat frit that the temp is 1,100-1,500. Will leaving the piece in there and just turning it off have a higher chance of the ring to warp from being hotter longer? Thank you!
Sorry forgot to mention that my recess I’m looking at max .5mm to .7mm from the info I’ve gotten from others here. I feel like I’ve learned more on this site than the books tbh. Again, thank you!